Eagle

Like so many outdoor enthusiasts I need my regular fix of activity in the mountains, whether that be through trekking, on skis, or even just touring; but this week Rachel and I have tried something rather different, and certainly new to the both of us. Snowshoeing.

A ‘chocolate-box’ alpine view, looking up the valley from Bonnevaux

Around five years ago friends of ours from our Chiltern walking group bought a run-down traditional agricultural building in the small village of Bonnevaux in the Abondance Valley of Haute Savoie in the French Alps, some 20 kilometres or so south of Lake Geneva. During that time they have restored much of the building, lovingly retaining its centuries-old rustic character, as a base for outdoor activities in the mountains. A group of ten of us have been lucky to be amongst the first guests to enjoy their hospitality, whilst by day we have spent the last few days under the expert guidance of Bertille, a local mountain leader, learning to snowshoe and enjoying some wonderful hikes.

All set for a wonderful few days in the Alps

Those who know this region of France will be aware of the charm of its villages and countryside and will have been awed by the dramatic scenery and the spectacular views of its high pastures and alpine peaks. Rachel and I have visited the area for holidays a number of times previously, but have never before immersed ourselves quite so deeply into the wondrous landscapes of this part of France. A big thank you to our hosts and to all of the group for making this week such a memorable experience.

From Bonnevaux, looking eastwards towards Abondance

Before sharing some pictures of our exertions, perhaps just a quick look at snowshoeing itself, a discipline not too difficult to learn for beginners such as us, though (given the local terrain) requiring significant fitness and stamina!

The lightweight snowshoes have a surface area to the snow of around four times that of a walking boot, so as to spread the load and allow the walker to glide over the surface of the snow . . .

. . . whilst the front ‘teeth’ and a number of studs on the bottom of the shoe prevent slippage across icy surfaces

The snowshoes are used with poles, and the ‘decks’ can be hinged to enable ease of movement uphill, downhill, and on the flat (if one can find any)!

Along with a few snapshots of our walking group I hope that the following images can convey something of the dramatic landscapes and of the vegetation and wildlife that inhabit the region, and the lifestyles of those living in the mountains.

On our first day, staying over at Thonon-les-Bains on Lake Geneva with our friends Philip and Carenza, we took a short walk by the waterside to enjoy our first mountain air . . .

. . . alongside many waterfowl that included these grebes

Next day, at last on snowshoes, we had to climb from Prétairié, well above Abondance, to encounter some snow – the conditions this season have not been good for winter sports, and finding powder (as opposed to the ‘wet’ snow in this image) was only possible above 1500 metres . . .

. . . although that did little to dampen our enthusiasm, as Bertille shared her homemade quince jellies and fruit liquor at our high point today . . .

. . . ahead of the picturesque walk back to Bonnevaux

Monday morning, setting off for a hike above the Lac des Plagnes, south of Abondance . . .

. . . and a drink and chocolate stop on the slopes

Looking down on our approach to Abondance . . .

Next day, from Chatel, a snowshoe walk up the mountain and over into Switzerland

The intrepid few who made it to the top were rewarded with Bertille’s wonderful plum schnapps, but sadly not the hoped-for views, as the mist shrouded the Dents du Midi to our east

Soon after the weather closed in further still as we descended . . .

Undeterred in the failing light, the whole group climbed once more, this time to the mountainside Chalet Theo for dinner . . .

Next, a ‘rest day’ of lower-level walking in the valley – just lovin’ the solitude!

On our last day, we set off up into the woods near La Chapelle d’Abondance and past this icy waterfall

. . . but some super views on our final descent

The song ‘Eagle’, from where I have taken this week’s Blog heading, was recorded by ABBA in 1977 and included in their fifth studio album, ‘ABBA: The Album’ released the following year. The music and lyrics were written respectively by the band’s Benny Anderssen and Bjorn Ulvaeus as a form of tribute to the American group ‘Eagles’, much admired by ABBA at the time. The soaring melody certainly captures the mood of our week in the mountains, whilst the uplifting lyrics include the following apt lines: