Face The Sun

LETJOG PEAK No 10: Milk Hill, Wiltshire (295 metres)

Walk Date: Tuesday 18 April 2023

I would guess that Milk Hill takes its name from the chalky white mud on its steeper flanks!

Having been raised in Loughton, upon the threshold of Epping Forest, family walks in the woods comprise many of my earliest memories, and it is difficult to better a spring walk through the vibrant greens of new growth or the autumnal colours of the beechwoods. It has taken me somewhat longer to appreciate the other end of the arboreal spectrum, that of open plains with just occasional copses and isolated wind-sculpted bushes clinging to survival against the formidable elements. But it was through 13 miles of such country that my LETJOG Peaks walk took me today, over Marlborough Downs upon the summit of Wiltshire: a somewhat reassuringly open landscape of far-reaching views across arable fields and pasture, of gusty winds, huge skies and the song of a thousand skylarks.

My clockwise walk began, and ended, in the small village of East Kennett, just five miles or so west of Marlborough in the centre of Wiltshire: the gentle climb taking me up to the top of Milk Hill ahead of a southerly descent to Alton Priors and a couple of miles along the Kennet and Avon Canal, before climbing once more onto the Downs and to the top of Tan Hill

For many years a debate endured in these parts as to the higher peak in this Wiltshire section of the North Wessex Downs; was it ‘Old Adam’ (as the locals call Milk Hill) or his sister, Tan Hill? The argument was not finally put to bed until 2009 when BBC’s ‘Countryfile’ programme featured a detailed analysis from the Ordnance Survey that determined in favour of Milk Hill – by just 20 centimetres. A fine margin indeed, and small enough to justify my route today taking in both tops, just to be on the safe side!

An interesting walk profile clearly shows the flat middle section along the canal and the almost equal peaks of Milk Hill (left) and Tan Hill

I have resolved to use public transport where possible on this challenge, or at the very least to incorporate my walking trips with other plans. The Marlborough Downs are not easily reached by rail services, but being close to the M4 made the start point a convenient diversion on my way down to see my son Chris and daughter-in-law Mima in Cardiff. Setting off early I had a splendid walk, southward, through a morning of strong sunshine and some spectacular cumulus clouds that dappled the hillsides with scudding shadows, before an overcast afternoon return against a strong north-easterly headwind.

The pleasant village of East Kennett, where I started out today
The White Horse Trail leads from the village up to the Downs . . .
. . . across a vast landscape of fields and downland
Within an hour or so of prolonged but gentle incline I reached the County Top – Milk Hill, the summit of Wiltshire, at 295 metres
Looking west to Tan Hill . . .
. . . before a steep descent down the slope to the south, into the Vale of Pewsey and past the Alton Barnes White Horse cut into the chalk scarp . . .
. . . seen here from the small village of Alton Priors
Thatching in progress
My two miles along the Kennet and Avon Canal made for a great picnic lunch stop . . .
. . . whilst I watched the local fisher
Horse riders on the track back up to the Downs
On the top of Tan Hill after a steep climb up the scarp
West to east across this part of the Marlborough Downs runs the East Wansdyke, a deep ditch flanked by embankments thought to be part of a linear defence structure from the early Middle Ages
Going back in time a little further, the large number of barrows and tumuli in this area record the occupation of the land from Neolithic times (around the fourth millennium BC), shortly after early pastoralist communities had first introduced agriculture to our island
About a mile across the fields to the north of my path stands the Neolithic chalk mound of Silbury Hill, the tallest prehistoric human-made structure in Europe, with a volume similar to contemporary Egyptian pyramids
At last out of the wind following a rather breezy return down the dip slope, I returned to the tranquillity of East Kennett

After my exertions I read a little more about the pre-history of this area, and in particular of nearby West Kennett Long Barrow and Avebury Ring. There is a huge amount of archaeological and historical interest in this locality, certainly meriting another, perhaps less fleeting, visit. The Ridgeway National Trail that runs from nearby Avebury has its eastern end at Ivinghoe Beacon near Tring in my part of the Chiltern Hills: I walked this 85-mile path around two decades ago, and perhaps it is time to explore it again, a little more thoroughly. But for now, it is time to leave for Cardiff after a fine day conquering my tenth LETJOG Peak!

Dinner chez Mima and Chris in Cardiff – thank you both for a lovely evening – and for a bed for a weary walker!

Born just across the Vale of Pewsey in Tidworth, singer-songwriter James Blunt is my chosen artist today, and the self-penned number ‘Face The Sun’ from his 2013 ‘Moon Landing’ album certainly fits well with my outbound hike this morning. Blunt served for six years in the British Army including a stint in the Kosovo War in 1999, before changing career and rising to fame in 2004 with his first album ‘Back To Bedlam’. He has since sold in excess of 20 million records worldwide.

Downland dandelion flowers at their best

2 thoughts on “Face The Sun

  1. Nick – you are amazing. My mother’s maiden name was Kennet. I loved your tour round London – and indeed Loughton, where I also grew up – we moved there from Westcliff on Sea when I was 9. We now live south Wiltshire, Stonehenge, Old Sarum (iron age hill fort where William the Conqueror built a castle & a cathedral, but it was high, cold, & water difficult to obtain and a bit of hanky panky from the castle lads and eventually the Pope gave permission to move the cathedral to New Sarum, Salisbury, which did not exist……it is very low, lying on 5 rivers,which flood, wherever you walk in Salisbury you are walking on water! The last time the nave flooded was in 1915. Cathedral was begun in 1220 and finished in 1258, 38 years. When they added the Spire a hundred years later – it all began to wobble but thankfully Sir Christopher Wren (born not far away) came to inspect and made suggestions, so it did not topple over. We also have the oldest working clock in the world, You can go up in the roof and climb the tower and much is at it was. However it was very brightly coloured – and Wyatt was brought in end of 18c to remove colour and destroy windows. Later a Dean asked what happened to the glass “it was thrown in the ditches’ he was told, They found a bit, bought more from disused churches in London and the Continent and gave all the glass to one guy who spent his life putting it together to make the West Window…. how? We are fortunate enough to live in the Close and if you do come back to this neck of the woods, give me a call (Betty has our no.) and you could even stay over and I could drive you to wherever – not sure about long long walks ! Thanks for all you do – it is glorious….. Jane

    stay the night & I could drive you wherever – not so sure about long distance walking !

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  2. Really enjoyed your blog about glorious Wiltshire, Nick. Amused that Jane has commented before me as I was going to forward your blog to her as I knew she would be interested! Over the years I have visited Wiltshire so many times,
    but I don’t think I have ever heard of Silbury Hill. I guess Stonehenge takes all the glory! Just occurred to me………could another challenge in the future be to visit every cathedral in the UK? 😊. Lots of history then to relate to your ‘followers’!

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