High And Dry

LETJOG PEAK No 11: Cleeve Hill, Gloucestershire (330 metres)

Walk Date: Wednesday 19 April 2023

The soft hues of oolitic Cotswold limestone, ranging from magnolia through ochre, give the buildings and walls of these parts a distinctive and pleasing character

Scotland has its Munros, peaks of over 3,000 feet (about 915 metres) that total 282 in number at the last count, all embodied in a list originally conceived in 1891 by Sir Hugh Munro during an era of great wilderness exploration and conquest. South of the border our summits are generally more modest, but nonetheless their beauty is worthy of an appropriate moniker. And so, in 1992, stepped up Alan Dawson, coining, within his book ‘The Relative Hills of Britain’, the title ‘Marilyn’ to denote hills within the British Isles enjoying a prominence of 150 metres or more, regardless of their absolute height. The ironic name acknowledges the caledonian precedent (Marilyn Monroe being a homophone of Munro), and these peaks number 2,011 in total, of which over 1,200 are in Scotland and just 175 are in England.

Today’s walk profile that indicates the prominence of Cleve Hill

I say all of this because today’s County Top, Cleeve Hill in Gloucestershire, my highest summit to date, is only the second Marilyn of my LETJOG Peaks challenge. My first, Ditchling Beacon in East Sussex (see my Blog ‘Can’t Stop Now’ of 22 March that also defines the concept of topological prominence, for those interested), was shrouded in mist and pelted with driving rain, and so the views associated with such a peak of Marilyn status were absent on that occasion. Today was different: high, dry, and with views to match as the early mist lifted.

There could be a hundred or more different ways of exiting and returning to central Cheltenham en route to and from Cleeve Hill, and the blue line of today’s walk criss-crosses accordingly – the more rural central part of this 15-mile ramble shows our route up the steep scarp of Cleeve Hill, our traverse of the Cleeve Common plateau, and our eventual descent back to the town

After the solitude of yesterday’s downland hike in Wiltshire, on this walk it was marvellous to have the company of Phil Cox, an old schoolfriend who many of you might recognise from our travels around northern Scotland during our ‘Ride & Stride’ adventure last September. Phil is resident of Cheltenham and kindly took on the navigation for me today, leading our ramble from his front door, through the town, and up to the County Top on Cleeve Hill. We chose the date well, as the sunny intervals provided intermittent warming from the gusty wind and dispersed some of the morning haze as the day wore on. Here’s how we fared:

Cheltenham Town Hall, an early 20th Century public venue in the town centre, blends easily with the predominantly Regency and Victorian buildings of this elegant spa town . . .
. . . whilst the Borough Council resides in the Municipal Offices (with no expense spared on the extensive spring planting outside)
Ascending the pastures out of Prestbury on the lower slopes of Cleeve Hill . . .
. . . and halfway up, a side path off into the bluebells of Queen’s Wood
Cheltenham Racecourse, now on the northern edge of the town, was once sited up here on the plateau of Cleeve Common
Former quarry workings have created some interesting landforms on the western scarp of Cleeve Hill
We emerged onto the plateau at Cleeve Cloud, where ancient earthworks indicate the remains of an ancient fort, above which runs the Cross Dyke shown here
There are two trig points on the Cleeve Common – our path took us first to the lower, more northerly one, at 317 metres of elevation . . .
. . . from which we had distant views towards the slightly higher southerly peak of Cleeve Hill, just behind the two masts
After a short descent and a welcome lunch in the clubhouse of the Cleeve Hill Golf Course, we ascended once more, this time to the southern summit of Cleeve Hill, the County Top of Gloucestershire, at 330 metres . . .
. . . and a chance for me to brave the elements in modelling my new apparel from the British Red Cross
From the tops we followed the Cotswold Way for a short stretch, above the limestone grassland of Prestbury Hill Reserve that provides a haven for rare plants such as musk and bee orchids, and for insects that include the nationally rare chalkhill blue, small blue and Duke of Burgundy butterflies
A woodland apparition as we made our descent . . .
. . . back down to the town
Cheltenham’s Neptune Fountain – also high and dry, at least for the moment
Returning to base through the stylish neighbourhood of Montpellier

Fine weather, a fine walk, and very fine company – it was great to see you Phil, and thank you for being my guide for the day. Cleeve Hill, at 330 metres is my highest summit attained to date, and ranks 18 on the list of the highest English County Tops. All those shires above Gloucestershire on my list have tops of over 400 metres – I must soon start planning for the highlands of northern and western England as my LETJOG Peaks challenge moves towards its second quarter.

A portent of walks to come!

Brian Jones, founding member of the Rolling Stones was, to a great extent, the band’s leader through its formation in 1962 as a ‘British Blues’ outfit and throughout the group’s early success. He hails from Cheltenham and is an appropriate inspiration for today’s Blog heading ‘High and Dry’, written by bandmates Mick Jagger and Keith Richards, that appears on the Stones’ April 1966 album ‘Aftermath’. Jones, primarily a vocalist and guitarist, also contributed the varied experimental instrumentation on the album, and on ‘High and Dry’ he features on harmonica alongside his guitar work. Jones’ struggles with drink and drugs are well documented, and he was an unfortunate member of the ‘27 Club’, passing away at that tender age, shortly after his dismissal from the band in 1969.

2 thoughts on “High And Dry

  1. Sounds like a great walk Nick. We remember the views well as a couple of summers ago Mandy, Rick, Eleanor and I played at Cleeve Hill golf course on a hot, cloudless and windless day. Our return to the clubhouse for food and drink, which had only just opened at the time, was very welcome!

    Well done (again!).

    Brian.

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  2. The Cotswold stone is so warm and beautiful as are so many of Cheltenham’s buildings. Looks like a fine walk.
    Love the final plaque pic Nick!!

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