Champagne Supernova

LETJOG PEAKS Nos 15 and 16: Black Chew Head, Greater Manchester (542 metres) and Black Hill, West Yorkshire (582 metres)

Walk Date: Wednesday 3 May 2023

It was on with the sun cream and the sun-hat today for the first time on my LETJOG Peaks challenge. What a day. The Peak District just dazzles in the sunshine – perhaps it is the sparkle of minerals in the rock and the shimmer of standing water on the moors, but either way it is a fine spectacle to behold when the hills are blessed with sunshine.

My circular route today started and finished at Crowden on the north shore of the Torside Reservoir, an area towards the north-west of the Peak District – the settlements on the left of the map are outliers of Greater Manchester

Before I get into the details of my walk, I would just like to welcome all of the new followers of my Blog, as well of course those of longer standing! Thank you all for all of your messages of support for my efforts – I really appreciate the comments on these Blogs and also the private messages that I have received over the last few days since the start of my walks in this upland region of England. Please feel free to pass on my website address to anyone who might be interested in following my walks and seeing the photos of springtime around the wilder parts of our country. Thank you also for the kind contributions to my suggested cause, the British Red Cross’ Ukraine Crisis Appeal – this sponsorship is greatly appreciated, particularly given the daily news from Ukraine of ongoing conflict and hardship. For those interested there is a direct link to my JustGiving page on my Home tab above.

Onwards and upwards, blue skies today as I set off northwards along the Pennine Way once more

When I walked the Pennine Way nearly five years ago this stretch of the path comprised my second morning, and just like my first day the weather gods delivered overcast skies and heavy rain showers. Isolated Black Hill really did live up to its name. Not so today, as clear skies and some warm sun greeted my climb from Crowden, making for a wonderful moorland walk.

Looking back down on the pleasant hamlet of Crowden
Heading up an ancient track, where the dry-stone walls have long-since collapsed
This memorial on the Pennine Way is to Manchester’s Harry Phillips, ‘A Staunch Walker’ who passed away in 1980
Laddow Rocks, high up the side of the valley of Crowden Great Brook, are popular with climbers at weekends (despite the rock-face taking considerable effort just to gain access)
After a fair climb the views back down the valley are stunning
Eventually, after a detour from the Way, I made it to Great Chew Head, the County Top of Greater Manchester, atop a boggy plateau and marked with just this small cairn
After staggering through the peatlands I re-joined the Pennine Way for this wonderful stretch alongside the brook . . .
. . . ahead of this open moorland section on Grains Moss – the flagstones are part of the £5.5 million MOORlife conservation programme around Black Hill, aimed at maintaining this precious moorland in the face of airborne pollution, increasingly frequent wildfires, and numerous walkers
On the top of Black Hill, at 582 metres the summit of West Yorkshire, and with a prominence of 165 metres the hill is a Marilyn and one of the dominant summits of the northern Peak District

Alone at the trig point, over my picnic lunch, I sat awhile in the sun to read up a little on the region. The Peak District has the distinction of being the UK’s first National Park. Inaugurated in 1951 and comprising 555 square miles of upland, the designation marked the culmination of a campaign by the pioneering environmentalist Ethel Heythornthwaite. Ethel’s name has been honoured recently by the establishment of a list of ‘Ethel’ hills, currently totalling 95, in and around the National Park, with heights of over 400 metres (together with a few lower but highly prominent peaks). Ethel-bagging is now a recognised pursuit in these parts and, somewhat inadvertently, I seem to be joining this exclusive club!

As regards wildlife, the mountain hare inhabits those parts of the northern Peak District that I walked in today, the species’ only home in Great Britain outside of Scotland. Despite keeping my eyes open I was unable to spot one of these fine animals, although I did see numerous brown/green lizards scampering off the path on my approach. I heard, in the woods, near Highstones Rocks, my first cuckoo of the season, whilst the heather harbours a generous population of grouse, including some black grouse whose shrill quack-like calls are apt to startle the unwary walker, myself included. Insect life, particularly the flying varieties, are mercifully subdued at this time of year, though there are some spectacular iridescent beetles (such as the one in my first photo above that measures around 30 mm in length).

Time to leave the leaning tower
A moorland lake on the plateau of Tooleyshaw Moss – inviting but probably treacherous
Starting my descent through a long cutting in the peat beds . . .
. . . eventually reaching open moorland again
A lonesome Christmas tree
Above Crowden Great Quarry, formerly an open-cast gritstone mine, whose 30-metre faces are now used by climbers
Exiting the quarry with views of the valley and reservoir

These twelve miles, and around 600 metres of cumulative ascent, took me the best part of six hours, two miles per hour, reflecting the demanding terrain, and of course the fine weather that made water and lunch stops somewhat longer than they needed to be. A fine day indeed for enjoying these two latest LETJOG Peaks, numbers 15 and 16 – numerically at least, one third of my total quest achieved!

Looking down to the west from the Snake Pass on my drive back to Hathersage – my only view of central Manchester today was these ghostly blocks in the distant heat haze (the town in the middle distance is Glossop)

Yorkshire – North, South, and East Riding – will all get their moment on my LETJOG Peaks challenge as far as music artists are concerned. So today, from my twin peaks, I have gone with Greater Manchester for the musical inspiration for my Blog heading. ‘Champagne Supernova’ has precious little to do with walking or with any other aspect of my experience today (as far as I know), but it certainly makes for an eye-catching heading to describe such a fine day as this in the hills. The song of this title was penned by Noel Gallagher of the Manchester-based ‘Britpop’ band Oasis; it appears as the closing track on their 1995 album ‘(What’s the Story) Morning Glory?’ Catchy title aside, as to the meaning of the song Gallagher commented to NME some years later that ‘it means different things when I’m in different moods – when I’m in a bad mood, being caught beneath a landslide is like being suffocated – the song is a bit of an epic’. Modest stuff indeed, although the question of the song’s meaning certainly remains unanswered.

Well it’s not quite champagne, but rehydrating this evening in Hathersage with a pint of the excellent Kettlewell Best Bitter from the local Peak Ales brewery was most welcome indeed

2 thoughts on “Champagne Supernova

  1. Nick,

    Really enjoying reading your blogs and following your walks and travels. Hope to catch up with you sometime if you are coming through this way! Love to you and Rachel,

    Jane x

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  2. And no better place for the sun to shine than in my home county! The beautiful view from snake pass reminds me of the hairy journeys I made over to college in Sheffield from Manchester- sometimes open and frequently closed in the winter. Lovely pics as usual Nick. You should write a book! ‘Our wondrous country’ x

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