LETJOG PEAK No 26: High Willhays, Devon (621 metres)
Walk Date: Friday 9 June 2023
This sculpture-cum-mural on the side of a house in the centre of Okehampton depicts a Dartmoor farmer, although on first viewing I saw him as a fellow hiker: I have been unable to ascertain the sculptor, but their work certainly captures the mood of the moorland to the south of the town
Leaving behind the sedimentary sandstones of Exmoor for the Permian granite of Dartmoor, I started out early today on the 40-mile drive to Okehampton, ahead of my quest to conquer High Willhays, the peak of Devon. The drive through the narrow sunken lanes of Devon took me back four decades or so, to my time at Exeter University – three happy years that included regular trips out to Dartmoor (amongst various other escapades). I have a certain consequential affinity for this area, and it was certainly a pleasure today to enjoy Dartmoor on one of its more clement days and to reminisce in the sunshine as I walked the latest of my LETJOG Peaks.
My start and end point today was the market town of Okehampton on the north-western edge of Dartmoor: walking first up the valley of the West Okement River to Meldon Reservoir my climb then started in earnest to the peaks of Yes Tor and High Willhays, before a northward descent back down through Okehampton Camp to complete a wonderful 12-mile circuit
As a pavement plaque within the granite setts of its central square attests, Okehampton is one of only two market towns mentioned in the Domesday survey of Devon in 1086, and the town has long been an important regional centre, establishing itself on the back of the medieval wool trade. Arriving early I had some time to spare exploring the centre before setting out up onto the moorland. Here are a few images that I hope will give a flavour of my walk.
Not easy to capture without a stream of traffic outside, the tower of St James’ Chapel stands proud in the centre of Okehampton . . .. . . whilst just a short distance away the East Okement River flows through the town centreThe East and West Okement Rivers meet within the northern part of Okehampton: my path today followed the latter upstream and out of the town . . .. . . before a short detour to Okehampton Castle, a motte and bailey structure dating from the 11th Century Norman period, on the high ground to the west of the riverA shady meander through the woodlands in the valley . . .. . . was followed by a pleasant stroll alongside the fairways and greens of Okehampton Golf ClubEmerging from amongst the trees to a view of the dam at Meldon Reservoir, and beyond, southwards, to Great Links Tor (at 586 metres high, a little lower than my destination for the day) . . .. . . and the still waters of the Reservoir itself, from atop the damAbove the Reservoir my route entered straight onto open moorland; with no signage nor even any obvious path my steep hour-long climb entailed clambering up between the rocks, with just a few sheep for company . . .. . . and, nearing the plateau at the top, some wind-sculpted rocksMy first peak today, Yes Tor, at 619 metres of elevation, is just two metres short of High Willhays (seen here in the background): from my angle of approach Yes Tor is the more dominant peak, all the more so for the granite rock-forms on its topApproaching the summit cairn of High Willhays . . .. . . and, at last, on the top of Devon, 621 metres above sea level – a good place for a water stop and my snack lunch!Views over the open landscape of the Dartmoor massif to the fields beyond, lost in the haze . . .. . . and looking back at the twin peaks as I started my northerly descent (with Yes Tor the nearest on the right, and High Willhays, in the background, along the ridge to the left)Another view looking back to my conquered peaks (in the background behind Black Down), on a track that would have made for an easier ascent!The Ten Tors Cross at Okehampton Camp, presented to the Junior Leaders Regiment Royal Signals by the people of Bovey Tracey in 1960 (and moved to this location in 1971)A gun at the Camp – I’m not sure that I’m meant to be taking photos at this place, but this piece of artillery seems to be proudly displayed here for the benefit of walkersThe grassy track back down into Okehampton
Thus ended another wonderful day of walking in the beautiful upland country of the South West. At 621 metres, High Willhays comes in at Number 8 on the list of highest English County Tops, and hence is the second highest of my LETJOG Peaks climbed to date. The prominence of High Willhays, at 533 metres, makes this summit a ‘Marilyn’ and by these measures the most impressive mount outside of any other south of Cumbria and Northumberland, whilst it’s elevation also confers upon it the additional status of a ‘Hewitt’. This latter sobriquet is used by some to denote a British hill of over 2,000 feet, of which High Willhays and Yes Tor are the only representatives in southern England. All in all, a good day’s work, and great day’s walking!
Foxgloves galore, on the woodland paths around Okehampton
Today’s Blog heading ‘Higher We Aspire’ seems an apt title following my ascent one of England’s highest County Tops, and particularly given my forthcoming plans for some still greater climbs later this month in the Lake District. My heading is taken from a song of the same name by Devon’s Seth Lakeman, a track from his 2021 album ‘Make Your Mark’. Lakeman was born in Yelverton on the south-western edge of Dartmoor and raised in nearby Buckland Monachorum. The singer-songwriter and multi-instrumentalist has been one of England’s foremost folk artists for more than two decades, and I was lucky enough to see him play live in Berkhamsted in 2012. A talent well worth seeing if you have the chance to do so; passionate music that captures well the aura of Dartmoor.
Another Dartmoor sculpture – I’m calling this one ‘The Iron’
One thought on “Higher We Aspire”
Well done Nick – as amazing and beautiful as ever, Jane
Well done Nick – as amazing and beautiful as ever, Jane
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