The Challenge

LETJOG PEAK No 28: Helvellyn, Westmorland (950 metres)

Walk Date: Saturday 17 June 2023

If you have been reading these Blogs for a while then firstly my thanks for following my journey; and also you will know by now that I tend to wax lyrical about the landscape in most areas of our fine country as I file my reports on my walks. It is difficult anywhere though to better the majesty of the Lake District – its commanding peaks tower over any others in the land and, scale aside, it is really the ice-sculpted scenery of the Lakeland rock, softened by the greenery of the valleys and all set under moody skies, that give the area a special character all of its own. Rachel and I are fortunate to have a week away up here, to enjoy walking in the hills and dales – as well of course as the incidental opportunity for me to bag another couple of County Tops.

My route today, shown by the dark blue line, led me eastwards out of Keswick for a mile along the level Keswick to Threlkeld Railway Trail, then up a lane to the Castlerigg Stone Circle before turning southwards to follow the St John’s Beck valley: and then the real climb started, up the lower slopes of Brown Crag above Thirlmere, then joining the popular western approach up to the summit of Helvellyn

Westmorland is not actually a current Ceremonial County. As such it is not one of the original 48 English shires that I intended to climb on my LETJOG Peaks challenge. Along with Cumberland and a part of northern Lancashire, this historic shire was amalgamated into Cumbria in 1974, and although the former county has recently been partially reinstated as a top-tier administrative authority, as Westmorland and Furness, it is Cumbria that remains its overriding Ceremonial County, at least for the moment. But by including Westmorland I have given myself the important opportunity of climbing Helvellyn, the peak that was historically its County Top, and by some margin my highest climb yet on this venture. I hope that my photos show a little of the Lakeland wonders that I enjoyed on this marvellous upland walk.

Nepali prayer flags on the Moot Hall (a former medieval courthouse) in the Market Square in Keswick town centre, that I took as a good omen as I started out early on my walk

Crossing the River Greta on my way out of Keswick

Dog roses by the wayside, along the line of the former Keswick to Threlkeld Railway

. . . where the Neolithic Stone Circle holds all-encompassing views of the surrounding peaks – including my first sighting of Helvellyn (in the distant centre of the shot) . . .

. . . and Blencathra, somewhat closer, to the north-east

Early morning looking up the Greta Valley . . .

. . . and southward over St John’s Beck, on my approach to the Helvellyn range

. . . then starting my climb onto the moors

. . . and upwards towards the summit of Helvellyn

Almost there – just as the rain blows in on a stiff breeze

After nearly four hours of walking I made it to the summit of Helvellyn, the County Top of Westmorland at 950 metres!

With a prominence of 712 metres the peak has some fantastic views from the top, looking eastward here over Swirral Edge (left), Red Tarn in the foreground, and Ullswater in the background

Red Tarn again, and on the right Striding Edge, a famous arret walk that I have completed a couple of times previously when climbing Helvellyn from Glenridding to the east

On the long winding path of my descent now . . .

. . . and some stunning views of Thirlmere

My end point at Wythburn Church, where Rachel kindly picked me up – after 14 miles and nearly 1,100 metres of ascent, taking me a little over six hours

And so I have conquered the second highest of my proposed 50 LETJOG Peaks, and certainly a very fine day of walking it has been! Rachel and I have a few more days of this awesome scenery to savour from our base in Keswick, and accordingly I hope to be able to report back on my attempt to climb Cumbria’s Top, and England’s highest peak, Scafell Pike, during the next few days. Time to rest up now though!

Fantastic colours: Cumbrian slate, used in many buildings in the Northern Lakes around Keswick

My Blog heading today ‘The Challenge’ is taken from a song title off Christine McVie’s eponymous 1984 solo album, a number co-written with Todd Sharp. McVie is a Westmerian, hailing from the south Lakeland town of Bouth in what is now part of Westmorland and Furness, the daughter of a concert violinist and a faith healer. She grew up, as Christine Perfect, to become one of England’s most successful singer-songwriters, both as a solo artist and as a member of Fleetwood Mac. The band hit the top of the charts with their 1977 album ‘Rumours’ on which McVie wrote four of the ten tracks and contributed to a fifth. McVie sadly passed away at the end of last year; ‘The Challenge’ is one of her lesser-known numbers, but is nonetheless pleasantly melodic, and the title certainly sums up my walk today.

The Challenge

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