Higher Than Heaven

Posted bynickletjogPosted inPreparation

LETJOG PEAK No 37: Black Mountain, Herefordshire (703 metres)

Walk Date: Thursday 27 July 2023

A green patchwork of rural England

I would recommend this fabulous high-level walk to anyone who is game for climbing the initial 500 vertical metres, around ninety minutes, from Longtown by taking the path over the meadows, across Olchon Brook, and then up the steep scarp to the ridge that runs above the west side of the valley. Thereafter the great majority of this 17-mile circuit is along the tops, above the 600 metre contour, on a good and gently undulating path that offers some of the very finest views that I have enjoyed on my adventures around the country. Around twenty years ago, with my brother Tim, I had walked the length of this section of the English and Welsh border ridge, between Pandy and Hay-on-Wye, whilst in the process of completing the Offa’s Dyke Path from the Bristol Channel near Chepstow to the Irish Sea at Prestatyn; and so with the overnight rainclouds clearing I had been anticipating some spectacular views today. The hills, the weather, and the walk, certainly did not disappoint.

My route today started and finished in Longtown, Herefordshire, proceeding from the village clockwise, and steeply, up the eastern scarp of the Black Mountains to follow the Offa’s Dyke Path along the Welsh border for about six miles, before returning along the ridge on the eastern side of the Olchon Valley and descending to the lanes and back to the village
My walk profile illustrates the early steep climb up the scarp, then my traverse of the tops and my eventual descent along the lanes

I was quite surprised when researching my LETJOG Peaks challenge to find that the apex of Herefordshire, Black Mountain at 703 metres above sea level, ranks fifth highest amongst all of the tops of the Ceremonial Counties of England. It is also the only pinnacle of any English shire to carry the suffix ‘Mountain’, lending the climb some further appeal perhaps. The summit itself lies on the border between England and Wales on the long ridge that runs north-north-westwards along the boundary of the principality, a little to the south of Hay-on-Wye. From this watershed, and for most of my walking day in the clear air, the views were stunning, extending from the Bristol Channel in the south, around through the eastern horizons to the Malvern and Shropshire Hills, and then, to the left of my path, westwards across the Brecon Beacons and on to the hills of mid-Wales and as far as Snowdonia in the distant haze. I hope that you enjoy the pictures!

Longtown Castle was first built in the Norman period as an earth and timber motte and bailey fortress by Walter de Lacy, one of the principal ‘Marcher Lords’ tasked with defending the Welsh border: the stone-built cylindrical keep was added in the mid-12th century, and restored in 1403 by Henry IV to counter the attacks by the Welsh chieftain Owen Glyndŵr
The flooded track out of the village, through the Herefordshire red earth . . .
. . . leading out into the pastures of the Olchon Valley
Early morning mist lingering on the distant top of the ridge . . .
. . . and crossing the Olchon Brook
Starting the climb, with some first views back over Longtown and across the Herefordshire countryside
A rather damp and slippery path up through the ferns . . .
. . . eventually brought me up onto the moorlands at the top of the ridge
My first peak of the day, the trig point on the Offa’s Dyke Path along the ridge, at 610 metres of elevation
Views up here extend over the Wye Valley, and across to the Malvern Hills in the east . . .
. . . and to the Shropshire Hills to the north-east
Wild horses . . .
. . . and the path over the moors to Black Mountain
On the summit of Herefordshire: there is no defining feature on the top of Black Mountain which sits on the rounded crest of the moorland ridge at 703 metres of elevation – with a prominence of 154 metres the peak just qualifies as a ‘Marilyn’, deferring to the higher Waun Fach (811 metres) just four miles or so to the south-west over the border into Wales
Looking north-west to the headlands of the Black Mountains that face down to Hay-on-Wye . . .
. . . and turning back to the south as my return journey begins
The trig point on Black Hill, at 640 metres, not to be confused with her higher sibling Black Mountain
Black Hill – another peak!
My ridge path down the Cat’s Back ridge from Black Hill . . .
. . . then became an unexpected arête walk!
My final stretch of the walk along the lanes, and a last look back at the hills
Back in Longtown, set within the Castle grounds, the old schoolhouse dates from 1869, and this memorial stone records the names of the original subscribers to what was the first purpose-built elementary school in the county

With my day’s ramble complete I retraced my hour-long car journey back to Cardiff, where Rachel and I are spending a few days house-sitting, and cat-sitting, for our son Chris and daughter-in-law Mima. Wales has not featured previously more than a few lines in my LETJOG Blogs – there is of course a wealth of super coastal and mountain rambling to be had across the principality, so I really must return here on a future walking challenge. Meanwhile I am now planning my trips for the remaining 13 County Tops of my LETJOG Peaks adventure, and I hope to be reporting back to you all again as my journey continues, in about ten days’ time.

Over the last two to three years I have seen across the country these ‘No Mow May’ (extending into summer) areas of communal land left for wild flowers to flourish, and also as a haven for insects, birds and small mammals – in Longtown they have gone as far as naming the flowers that thrive on the protected patch

I have taken my Blog heading today, ‘Higher Than Heaven’, from a song of that title by Herefordshire-born singer-songwriter Ellie Goulding. The number was co-written by Goulding as the title track from her fifth and latest album, released in April of this year. Goulding was born in Hereford in 1986 and spent her early childhood in Lyonshall, a village in the north-west of the shire, a little to the north of my walk today. After breaking through with the release of her debut album ‘Lights’ in 2010 that reached No 1 on the UK album charts, Goulding has had significant success, and she made history recently when her 35th hit record placed her above Dame Shirley Bassey as the ‘British Female Solo Act’ with the most chart entries.

The first blackberries of the season!

2 thoughts on “Higher Than Heaven”

  1. Wot no beer at end???
    Fab pics and entertaining text as usual. Well done on the 5th highest peak. You were really lucky with the weather. It’s been wet wet wet here all week!
    Linda

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  2. Excellent photos, well done Nick! You seem to have had sunshine.Enjoy a rest whilst cat sitting. Loved the idea of listing wild flowers in Meadow! Thanks, Liz

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