Purple Sky

LETJOG PEAK No 39: Worcestershire Beacon, Worcestershire (425 metres)

Walk Date: Tuesday 8 August 2023

In the surreal mist today, up on the top of the Malvern Hills

Great Malvern is a most interesting place, sited at the foot of the Malvern Hills on the east flank of the range of mounts that includes the Worcestershire Beacon, my LETJOG Peaks destination for today’s walk. The town originated with the founding of an 11th-century priory, and owes much of its subsequent growth to the increasing popularity of hydrotherapy that reached its zenith in the 1800s as the centre expanded to join with the neighbouring settlements of Barnard’s Green, Malvern Link, North and West Malvern, and Malvern Wells to the south. Collectively known as The Malverns, the area’s prosperity was founded upon the reputed health-giving properties of the restorative Malvern spring water, as well as the natural beauties of the hills and the surrounding landscape. Local legend from medieval times had already acclaimed the benefits of the area’s natural spring water, and with Great Malvern at its centre the spa town attracted royalty and celebrated visitors aplenty, all seeking treatment, recuperation and entertainment. The borough continued to expand throughout the Victorian period, most especially from 1859 following the opening of the railway link from Worcester. In spite of the decline in popularity of hydrotherapy in the early 20th century the area has continued to prosper as an educational and cultural centre, with many actors, writers, artists and musicians residing in the Malverns or visiting the locale over the intervening years.

My walk today took me in an anti-clockwise direction north out from the centre of Great Malvern, before an early climb up to the County Top and a seven-mile ramble along the ridge of the Malverns Hills; then a gentle descent for my northerly return to the town across the lower ground on the lee side of the hills

Given the established local connection with water, it was perhaps appropriate that I saw the Malverns on such a wet day. My hopes of a continuation of yesterday’s fine weather in Shropshire were not to be, and instead the day brought a heavy mist, with drizzle in the air and dampness underfoot throughout my walk. It could be said that I enjoyed my own form of hydrotherapy today – all part of the joys of walking in England! But through the mist and rain I did manage to capture a few images.

The construction of Great Malvern Priory commenced in Norman times, and the building has the most extensive display of 15th century stained glass in England . . .
. . . whilst the nearby Priory Gatehouse (now a museum), dating from around 1480, is the only other part of the town’s medieval monastery that survived the dissolution by Henry VIII in 1539
Water is central to the history and fortunes of Great Malvern – this ‘Malvhina’ sculpture by Rose Garrard from 1998 is named after the Celtic Princess to whom some Victorian historians attributed the naming of the hills: the pure water of the fountain is piped directly from three springs above the town after filtration through the ancient Malvern stone
This clock tower was erected in 1901 by the residents of North Malvern to commemorate the accession of King Edward VII
Starting out on my wet climb . . .
. . . through stands of mountain ash glistening in the rain
I enjoyed some limited views at low level, before I entered the thicker cloud on the tops . . .
. . . but good way-marking kept me on course
Approaching the summit of the Worcestershire Beacon . . .
. . . the County Top of Worcestershire, at 425 metres of elevation . . .
. . . and just to prove that I made it: although the views indicated on the summit roundel were sadly not on show today
After a most welcome coffee at the aptly-named ‘H2O Cafe’ (where there is a small but fascinating Malvern Hills Geology Exhibition) I followed the grassy ridge up to the top of the equally well-titled Perseverance Hill . . .
. . . and then southward on the high ground all the way to Swinyard Hill . . .
. . . from where the summits path finally descends
Toadstools in the grass . . .
. . . and spider webs, catching raindrops in the gorse
My picnic lunch, as the rain stopped for a few minutes, was taken in the yard of the parish church of St Giles at Little Malvern Priory . . .
. . . and then it was back to the trail – and into the drizzle once more
Eventually my path back to the town joined the embankment of the former Malvern to Gloucester railway line . . .
. . . nowadays a haven for wildlife, including badgers whose setts proliferate amongst the vegetation where the route enters the old railway cuttings

Back in Great Malvern – this pair of restored gaslights are two of over a hundred in the locality that date from the mid-Victorian period; they are thought to have inspired C S Lewis’ Narnian landmark in ‘The Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe’

Two years ago, as part of my walk from Land’s End to John O’Groats, I took three days following the Severn Way, including the northward stretch between Tewkesbury and Worcester that passes about four miles to the east of the Malvern Hills. I remember well the short range to my left as I walked, and having never visited The Malverns previously I was pleased to return just briefly whilst staying in nearby Ledbury with friends last autumn. Despite the adverse weather curtailing my views today, it has been wonderful to come back once more to Great Malvern on my LETJOG Peaks challenge, and my stopover in the Abbey Hotel last night provided a pleasant opportunity of a closer look at the town. I hope to visit again soon, perhaps to repeat today’s walk along the top of the hills at a time of better visibility!

It is most appropriate today that my featured music artist is Malvern native and country/folk singer-songwriter Clive John. I have taken his composition ‘Purple Sky’ as my Blog heading for this walk, which is the title track from his second original album released originally in 2002; I love the song, and it is well worth a listen if you are not familiar with it. Had this walk been a month or so later I might have chosen another of John’s compositions, ‘September’, a ballad written in the style of Johnny Cash. Indeed John himself is better known these days as the voice of the Johnny Cash Roadshow, a first-class tribute act that I saw in St Albans about five years ago: he rarely features his own work in concert currently, which is a great shame. His website hints at a new album and a short tour of his own material, so I will be keeping an eye open – I would certainly love the chance to see him perform again sometime – in Great Malvern perhaps!

Rainbow colours in the street, at the end of a rather wet day!

One thought on “Purple Sky

  1. Really enjoying your posts, Nick, and your excellent photos. I’ve been in Dorset with family but sadly have curtailed their walking Considerably by my poor mobility, and with their much loved lab, would have had to have him on a lead to avoid some ghastly Accident were he to leap off the cliff without sensing the dangers. Still it’s a great county for walks from Studland. Were the mushrooms or Toadstools ink caps? We used to grow them under trees in our old house… delicious for breakfasts! Take care and enjoy rest of your travels! Liz (no reply needed obviously!) >

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