LETJOG PEAK No 42: Whernside, North Yorkshire (736 metres)
Walk Date: Tuesday 15 August 2023
Leaving behind the rain and the overcast conditions of yesterday, we had plenty of blue today, along with some spectacular cumulus (and a little cloud on the tops)
Walking days do not come much better than this. Of all parts of the country (and certainly with a nod to the Lake District, to Cornwall and to my new-found loveliness in the Welsh borders) there is nowhere in our fine land that I prefer walking in than the Yorkshire Dales. I have visited the area a good few times, and most recently I have walked through the Dales on the Coast to Coast trail last year, on my LETJOG trek two summers ago, and whilst completing the Pennine Way in 2019. But I have never before climbed Whernside, the highest peak in all of Yorkshire and an oversight on my walking CV that I am most pleased to have rectified now over these wonderful twelve miles on this latest leg of my LETJOG Peaks challenge. Aside from its own standing – and with a prominence of 408 metres this is considerable – Whernside is also one of the three renowned Yorkshire summits, along with Ingleborough and Pen-y-ghent, that are often tackled together in a single day’s mission as the ‘Yorkshire Three Peaks Walk’ around the head of beautiful Ribblesdale: a testing 24-mile challenge for another day I think!
Famed for its impressive viaduct, the hamlet of Ribblehead is about five miles from Ingleton: parked up here, our route today took us anti-clockwise on an ascent of Whernside, and then gently down along the mount’s southern ridge, before a steeper descent into the dale and a delightful return trip over the verdant valley of the Winterscales Beck and under the Ribblehead Viaduct
I was joined again today by my friend Mark, with whom I am sharing this three-day journey, and after yesterday’s rain it was especially pleasing to wake up this morning to bright sunshine for our climb up to the top of North Yorkshire. We stayed last night in nearby Ingleton, just about managing to come by some sustenance in the local takeaway, as our experience of finding a meal in these parts on a Monday night proved to be quite a challenge in itself! But loaded with water, and with provisions from the local Co-Op we were well-fed and stocked as we hit the trail early this morning. With the elements in our favour we enjoyed a super walk; I hope that the photos do justice to the wonderful landscapes of Ribblehead, Whernside and Winterscales.
Ingleton, our overnight base . . .. . . and Ribblehead, where our walk started – with the summit of Whernside in cloud, above the Ribblehead ViaductThe viaduct was designed by Victorian engineer John Crossly to carry the Settle to Carlisle railway line, and was opened in 1876 after seven years of construction by 2,300 men, of whom over 100 lost their lives in the process: despite plans to close the line in the 1980s, a public appeal ensured its retention following considerable restoration work, and the structure is now a scheduled ancient monumentOur well-made path led us parallel to the railway, along the east side of the line . . .. . . climbing gently for some early views back over our shoulder to the cloud-topped peak of IngleboroughThe Little Dale Beck is carried over the railway line on this aqueduct . . .. . . whilst we crossed the brook a little further upstream, over this smaller bridgeThe Force Gill waterfall . . .. . . and our path onto the moor, with Whernside looming behindA beetle on the path . . .. . . as the well-made flagstone way took us ever upwardsSuper views over Greensett Moss from the northern ridge of Whernside . . .. . . and then, approaching the summit, we breached the cloud-base, gaining just occasional sunlit glimpses of the green fields belowOn the summit of North Yorkshire, Whernside – at 736 metres of elevation, the fourth highest of the English County TopsLots of memorial pebbles up hereRe-emerging from the cloud, a southward vista towards Ingleborough . . .. . . and to the east, a distant view of the Ribblehead ViaductSteady on that rocky path down Mark!Ahead, across the valley towards IngleboroughLooking over Winterscales Beck at the Whernside ridge – heaven on earth!Over the pastures in the dale near Winterscales, as we approached the Ribblehead Viaduct from the west sideGetting closer . . .. . . and closer . . .. . . Wow!Back to our start point at Ribblehead, we took a southward glance to brooding Ingleborough – another peak that I have never climbed, and a very decent reason indeed to return again soon to the Yorkshire Dales!
With our walk done, a cuppa back in Ingleton village was most welcome. What a luxury too, to be able to put our feet up for a couple of hours in our rented apartment, ahead of a fine pub dinner spent reflecting on an excellent day on the mountain whilst seeing this corner of ‘God’s own county’ at its best. More to follow from the area tomorrow, on the next stage of my LETJOG Peaks adventure, as we attempt the climb to the top of Lancashire along the next ridge to the west of Whernside. I will be right back!
One of the joys of rambling is in meeting other walkers – today, coming down the mountain, we were caught by Michelle from the Yukon territory in Canada: she had flown in just yesterday and was by noon today around two-thirds of her way through the ‘Yorkshire Three Peaks Walk’ when her pace was slowed somewhat by joining us for a mile or two before her final ascent, up Ingleborough!
‘Brighter Skies’, my Blog heading for today, is borrowed from the title of a demo number by North Yorkshire band Shed Seven, that was released as a ‘bonus track’ to their 2017 album ‘Instant Pleasures’. The group was formed in York in 1990 and went on to become a central part of the Britpop music scene of the following decade, with 15 Top 40 singles and four Top 20 albums in the UK. ‘Instant Pleasures’ was Shed Seven’s first new album for 16 years; it sold well and featured the return of their original lead guitarist, York-born Paul Banks, marking something of a comeback for the band.
Precise engineering: local limestone was used on the buttresses of the Ribblehead Viaduct
2 thoughts on “Brighter Skies”
Wonderful countryside, Nick. One can quite understand why Yorkshire folk are so proud of their county.
Wonderful countryside, Nick. One can quite understand why Yorkshire folk are so proud of their county.
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What a fantastic walk. And sunshine too . Great photos.
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