Every One’s A Winner

Monday 25 September 2023

One week on, and the local walking continues, but now that my LETJOG Peaks venture is complete I am enjoying settling back into ‘normal’ life, without the need to plan for my next trip away, and with all of my outdoor gear back in a drawer rather than piled up next to my desk awaiting its next imminent outing. I have done a few simple calculations: my 45 separate walks to the 50 County Tops were all completed within a six-month period, equating to very nearly one walk every four days. My aggregate walking distance over these walks amounts to 609 miles (so an average of just over 13.5 miles for each walk), with a cumulative climb of over 21,000 metres, and a total step-count slightly in excess of 1.3 million, whilst in total I spent just over 250 hours on the trail. I do love a spreadsheet, and so here is the summary of my exertions.

More than the numbers though it is the memories that will remain with me, along with a heightened sense of appreciation of our country’s topography and geology, and for the history of our land and the flora, the fauna, and the people within it. The journey has been incredible, eye-opening and great fun, an indulgence of walking that has been quite a privilege really, and it has been super to share the journey with so many friends and relatives on my travels around England, and with everyone who has followed me on Instagram and on this Blog. Thank you all, once again.

The foremost question that I am being asked by many folk is: ‘which walk is your favourite?’ I really haven’t known where to start in answering this, so I’ve decided to have a look back and compile a shortlist of walks, one from each of ten selected geographic regions. The task is as impossible to undertake as it is fun, and of course it is totally subjective. I have tried to strip out as many of the external factors as possible, in particular the weather conditions that I enjoyed (or not) and the company that I had on each of the walk days, with the intention of demonstrating the variety of walking to be had in our country, and as inspiration to those who might choose to trek a few of my suggested routes at some future date. I have endeavoured to select a tensome that offer a nationwide balance and a diverse selection of environments that together showcase the English countryside, villages, townscapes and cities at their best. So here goes – starting from the south and east and, generally, getting progressively higher: the dates in brackets are the dates of my climbs – just in case you are interested in looking back at my Blog and my route map for the walk in question.

THE NORTH AND SOUTH DOWNS

Peak No 20: Leith Hill, Surrey (15 May)

Of the five counties in this area, the others being Kent, Greater London, East and West Sussex, it is the Surrey walk that stands out. It is a wonderful ramble, starting out from the pleasant town of Dorking, through verdant woodland up the gentle dip slope, and culminating, as the path emerges from the canopy of trees at the very top, with a remarkable panorama extending southwards over The Weald as far as the South Downs and back to the north over the London skyline. On a clear day it certainly takes some beating, especially as there is a café on the top! My nomination might be a little unfair on Ditchling Beacon, East Sussex (22 March), as I experienced this top in mist and driving rain with views limited to not more than a few metres – I have a ‘must return soon’ note in my mind, for another attempt on a clearer day. West Sussex’s Black Down (16 May) is also worthy of mention, a really lovely walk if you are in the area.

LONDON AND THE NORTHERN HOME COUNTIES

Peak No 9: High Holborn, City of London (16 April)

I may be doing a grand disservice here to my home patch around the beautiful Chiltern Hills by advocating my London walk above those of Hertfordshire and Buckinghamshire, and indeed of Bedfordshire and Middlesex, that all provide some of the best rambles in ‘Lowland England’. But I have to include one path through a city or metropolitan county, and there is none finer than around the City of London. Although much of the walk is actually outside of the Square Mile itself, this route is outstanding for its historical and architectural interest, and also for people-watching, and there is excitement for the curious mind at literally every turn; a fine way to see London in a new light.

EAST ANGLIA

Peak No 23: Beacon Hill, Norfolk (27 May)

The lowlands of Norfolk, Suffolk, Cambridgeshire, and my childhood shire of Essex are certainly not renowned for their inclines, and (the City of London aside) the four sit at the bottom of the County Top league table when it comes to height above sea level. Despite this, these four counties are home to some pleasant rolling countryside upon which there are many stunning walks to be had. The finest of the four on my journey has to be the lowest of all, Norfolk: a super ten-mile circuit up to Beacon Hill behind the coastal town of Sheringham that Rachel and I completed with friends on a fine day in May. The route includes sections of woodland, fields, lanes, cliffs and beach, with some marvellous seaward views and an opportunity to paddle in the surf: we know this part of the country very well, and it never disappoints.

THE NORTH WESSEX DOWNS

Peak No 40: Whitehorse Hill, Oxfordshire (11 August)

There are four County Tops quite close together in this region, Berkshire, Hampshire, Oxfordshire and Wiltshire, and really I could have gone for any of my walks over these rolling chalk grasslands; all offer fine views and have the additional interest of prehistoric settlements within a landscape rich in plant-life, birds and butterflies. I will not forget the ramble over Pilot Hill, Hampshire and Walbury Hill, Berkshire (12 July), but I’m going with the Oxfordshire walk for all of the above qualities plus some wonderful villages and wooded sections, and the experience of exploring the market town of Wantage where the route starts.

THE SOUTH WEST

Peak No 27: Brown Willy, Cornwall (13 June)

Incorporating Cornwall, Devon, Somerset, Dorset and Bristol, this region really presents a daunting choice. Brown Willy in Cornwall just shades it for me, due to its splendid moorland isolation and views, and for the rocky sculptures atop its tors; I climbed the peak with friends on a sensational day, when Bodmin Moor positively sparkled as the sunshine picked out the crystals in the exposed granite. Close behind are certainly Dunkery Beacon, Somerset (8 June) with its red earths and sea views, High Willhays, Devon (9 June) on wonderful Dartmoor, and the rolling beauty of the countryside around Lewesdon Hill, Dorset (30 June).

THE WEST MIDLANDS AND WELSH BORDERS

Peak No 39: Worcestershire Beacon, Worcestershire (8 August)

If I were to rank all the walks and aggregate the regional scores then this area would be right up there. My trek up Black Mountain, Herefordshire (27 July), the country’s fifth-highest County Top, was as spectacular as Brown Clee Hill, Shropshire (7 August) was beautiful, and both boast astounding views in all directions. The other walks in this region, to the peaks of Gloucestershire and Warwickshire, and the canal walk out of Birmingham in the West Midlands, all offer historical interest and natural wonders. But I’m going with Worcestershire, even though my walk was beset by drizzle and mist for almost the entire day, limiting views to a very few metres. The beauty and interest in the town of Great Malvern is the equal of any of my start-points, and the journey along the Malvern ridge is a challenge in any weather, no doubt providing some fine vantage points on clearer days. I will be back again soon to climb this top when the sun is shining!

THE EAST MIDLANDS

Peak No 35: Newtonwood Lane, Nottinghamshire (18 July)

This is a walk like no other, if only for exceeding expectations. Historical interest around the former quarries and disused railway lines combine with some pleasant farmland, the grandeur of Hardwick Hall, and some fine (and reassuring) environmental restoration work around the former coalfields. This all makes for a walk to remember. The shire summit itself is an inaccessible man-made reservoir on a mundane lane, but the ramble to get there is memorable; what better proof is there that it is ever the journey that prevails over the destination! The other County Top walks in this region, in Lincolnshire, Leicestershire, Northamptonshire and Rutland also have much to offer any walker across their pleasant rolling countryside and beautiful villages, and each makes for a great day on the trail.

THE PEAK DISTRICT

Peak No 14: Kinder Scout, Derbyshire (2 May)

The Peak District is special in many ways, to me not least because it is the nearest part of ‘Upland Britain’ to home, and a place where we would take the children in years gone by for some experience of ‘proper hills’. There are six County Tops upon this massif; those of Cheshire, Derbyshire, Greater Manchester, Staffordshire, and South and West Yorkshire. Basing myself in Hathersage, I had a wonderful four days of walking in early May, taking in the six summits. I might have chosen any of the walks, but the one I have gone for is the ascent of Kinder Scout, the Peak District’s highest point, and a very fine walk it is too, including a few miles along the start of the Pennine Way out of Edale. Great views, great country, and a great ramble.

THE NORTH EAST

Peak No 48: The Cheviot, Northumberland (12 September)

Of all the walks to the tops of the four counties in this region (County Durham, the East Riding of Yorkshire, Northumberland and Tyne & Wear) I have gone with the highest and northernmost, The Cheviot. The ascent of this flat-topped peak makes for a fabulous trek, with a hard climb and some peat bogs to negotiate, but all amply compensated by extensive views. The walk comes highly recommended, but preferably during drier periods when the ground conditions are firmer. Mickle Fell in County Durham (27 August) also deserves a mention, although it is a strenuous climb over peaty moorland and access days are limited (formal consent is required as it is an MOD training area).

THE LAKE DISTRICT AND THE WEST PENNINES

Peak No 29: Scafell Pike, Cumbria (20 June)

I just had to include this walk, as it is the highest peak in the land. It is a fairly exacting walk, with nearly 1,100 metres of cumulative height gain, and some sections involve scrambling, whilst the descent along the exposed ‘Corridor Route’ requires a steady nerve. The rewards are some awesome views and the feeling of accomplishment that comes with climbing to the summit of England. Whernside, North Yorkshire (15 August) above beautiful Ribblesdale, and Helvellyn, Westmorland (17 June) should certainly be mentioned in dispatches; the latter might have had the regional nomination if, rather than from the west, I had climbed via the eastern Striding Edge route, which is perhaps the most spectacular English ridge walk – I have walked Striding Edge a couple of times in earlier years and it is incredible if you have a head for heights and sure footing.

The above paragraphs cover 49 of my 50 peaks, which leaves just one county to consider, namely:

THE ISLE OF WIGHT

St Boniface Down (13 July)

This one walk is really so varied that it could serve as a microcosm of England, encompassing arable and pastureland, woodland, moorland, village and town, with sections of footpaths, farm tracks, quiet lanes, beach and cliff walks, and along a former railway cutting. And it also has the fun of a ferry ride and a quaint train journey to get there! I’ve found it impossible to pick an absolute favourite but this one would certainly be in the discussion.

So, true to form I have ended up with eleven walks in my ‘Top Ten’, and choosing a shortlist of favourite walks in the English countryside is much like this: it is really quite impossible to select from the myriad options available across such a diverse nationwide landscape. Indeed, pretty much, ‘every one’s a winner’. Wherever you choose to walk, or run, to cycle or drive, there is so much to enjoy across the English countryside and in our cities, towns and villages. Happy travels, and I hope to be blogging again on another challenge before too many more moons wax and wane. Many thanks to everyone for your support of my LETJOG Peaks venture, and I hope to see you all again soon on another journey.

With best wishes,

Nick

The Blog heading ‘Every One’s A Winner’ is borrowed from a song of the same name by popular soul band ‘Hot Chocolate’. The group was formed in North London in 1968 and has endured to the present day, albeit with a couple of breaks and several line-up changes, including the departure of founding member and frontman Errol Brown in 1985. Brown passed away in 2015, and I recall seeing the band at a festival a few days later when his former bandmates, clearly shaken, performed a tribute to him. Their set included the song ‘Every One’s A Winner’ (more accurately written ‘Every 1’s A Winner’), the title track from their 1978 album.

And finally, a couple of folk have asked me for the list of my LETJOG Peaks Blog titles. I have to admit to putting such a playlist together on Spotify for my own consumption and enjoyment, especially as it helps to bring back so many memories of my walks over the last six months. As you might have spotted, all of the titles that accompany the Blogs of my 45 County Top walks are by artists who hail from, or have a close connection with, the shire in question – so thereby this playlist also comprises a journey around England, showcasing our country’s past and present extensive musical talent across the rock, pop, and folk genres.

THE END