Rainy Days And Mondays

The Ridgeway: Day 1 – Overton Hill to Ogbourne St George (12.4 miles)

Monday 13 November 2023

Harvest time in East Kennett village

An early and very wet start greeted me today. The first day of any remote multi-day walk necessarily entails travel to the start point, and (along with the weather) a couple of train delays this morning certainly dampened some of the excitement of my rail trip down to Wiltshire. Nevertheless, alighting in the small market town of Pewsey an hour or so later than planned, for my taxi to the start of my Ridgeway trek, rekindled some spirit of adventure within at the prospect of my excursion over the next few days.

My path today, starting out from East Kennett, then to the start of the Ridgeway National Trail from the A4 at Overton Hill, before a wide loop on the high ground of the Downs around Marlborough, and eventually on to the village of Ogbourne St George

I decided to begin my trek a mile or so south of the official Ridgeway trail, from East Kennett village, for no other reason than familiarity: I parked here last April before climbing Milk Hill, the top of Wiltshire. Rather than southward as before, today I set off to the north, and in place of spring flowers I found autumn floods, with the Kennet river in spate and inundating the adjoining meadows.

Red berries give this hawthorn tree a wonderful autumnal glow

My delayed lunchtime start meant that my five-hour ramble finished in the darkness by the light of my head-torch, and I was grateful, as ever, to have my nordic poles to hand for some additional propulsion over the undulating Marlborough Downs. Most of my brisk walk today was above the 200-metre contour, reaching a high-point of nearly 270 metres on Hackpen Hill and again later near Upper Herdswick Farm, and so the route was indeed as exposed as the name Ridgeway would suggest. Accordingly I encountered a strong tailwind, several squally showers, and some spectacularly-lit landscapes. I hope that you enjoy these pictures of my day.

The track out of East Kennett . . .
. . . and the river in flood
Climbing Overton Hill, where I saw the first of many round burial mounds
The signboard on Overton Hill that marks the start-point of the Ridgeway National Trail . . .
. . . just 87 miles to Ivinghoe Beacon!
Underway: the track up onto the Downs . . .
. . . and looking back, southwards, as far as Milk Hill
A mile or so west of The Ridgeway, down this track, stands the ancient Stone Circle at Avebury, sadly too far for a detour today, but very much worth a visit!
Standing water, even on the chalk uplands . . .
. . . was topped up as I was hit by a second brief rain shower
A brief respite in the rain gave me a chance to enjoy my sandwich on a sheltered seat by the path . . .
. . . before the next shower approached
Some company, on the top of Hackpen Hill
Lengthening shadows . . .
. . . and spectacular skies . . .
. . . behind me, to the south
Now within the North Wessex Downs AONB (Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty), The Ridgeway path ascends the earthworks of Barbury Castle, built around 2,500 years ago . . .
. . . from which there are fine views from the ramparts, north-westward here over the plains to distant Swindon
As the light faded my path took me for three miles along Smeathe’s Ridge . . .
. . . then through some autumnal woodlands . . .
. . . and across the flooded River Og
Night fell as I approached the lights of Ogbourne St George

Arriving in the dark, I was most grateful for the large pot of tea offered to me at The Sanctuary in Ogbourne St George where I stayed this evening. This comfortable B&B certainly lived up to its name, and I was provided, exceptionally, with a fine evening meal – which was very much appreciated as the village’s only pub (where I had stayed with my then very young son Chris whilst walking The Ridgeway some 19 years ago) is closed on a Monday and Tuesday. Many thanks indeed to Rebecca and family for their fine hospitality!

An apt message on this memorial plaque affixed to the seat where I took my lunch on the Downs

Today’s heading ‘Rainy Days And Mondays’ is of course taken from a 1971 song by that title from The Carpenters. The recording features instrumental backing from members of The Wrecking Crew, who were a loose collective of talented US session musicians variously employed by numerous leading artists on literally hundreds of Top 40 hits across the 1960s and 1970s. As for the song itself, ‘Rainy Days And Mondays’ was penned by Paul Williams to music by Roger Nichols, a pair who had previously collaborated on ‘We’ve Only Just Begun’, another hit for the sibling duo of Karen and Richard Carpenter released the previous year.

6 thoughts on “Rainy Days And Mondays

  1. Fab photos as always 😊
    Your walks are always an inspiration. They make me want to get out walking…. shame I’m working today.
    Good luck with the rest of your expedition x

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  2. So pleased to have another of your treks to read about while having breakfast, Nick. Despite the rain you managed to catch some great photos of the beautiful countryside.

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  3. We had incredibly high winds yesterday morning on our walk around Aldbury so I can imagine what yours must have been like! Love the plaque message. Must remember it.

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  4. This blog is amazing Nick and pictures are fabulous. I’m happy for sharing this with as and I’m a bit upset because I can’t joint to your trips during the week days.
    But I will try to join for a long walk next year.
    YOKO😉

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  5. Gorgeous photos showing just how stunning Nature is even when it’s pretty wet! Is it the local brew you sample each night after your physical ramblings that allows you to capture it all in your diary so engagingly?!

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