Wednesday Morning, 3 A.M.

The Ridgeway: Day 3 – Wantage to Wallingford (19.8 miles*)

Wednesday 15 November 2023

Autumn colours – against a clear blue sky: what a day to be out walking!

I will start today with a thank-you to all those new to my Blog – I have had several ‘new-follower alerts’ in the last few days – and also to those who have been reading my musings for a while. Thank you also for all of your comments on my journey; these are much appreciated as motivation for my exertions, especially during the rain showers.

Faced with a three-mile walk up the busy Newbury Road from Wantage, I took a taxi back to the Ridgeway on Yew Down where I had reached yesterday: then I followed the high ground eastwards for a dozen or so glorious miles before descending to cross the Thames through Streatley and Goring, ahead of a wonderful, if somewhat boggy, seven-mile northward section along the Thames to Wallingford

Well, it wasn’t actually 3.00 am when I awoke this morning, but my seven o’clock alarm did indeed feel rather premature as I nursed my reluctant aching limbs out of bed. And, I fully accept, for those familiar with my song title heading above, that my mission today was entirely voluntary, unlike the subject of Paul Simon’s 1964 ode to a fugitive fleeing the law. I do, after all, undertake these endurance walks for fun!

Even some of bracket fungi boast autumn colours!

As a nation we are so fortunate to have such an extensive network of footpaths, dedicated by law and for the most part respected by users. Not every country enjoys such a privilege, and I recall a friend who moved to Australia saying that nearly all of their outdoors beyond the cities was either private land or hostile wilderness. Additionally we have our ten English National Parks and 46 AONBs (Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty), two of which latter, the North Wessex Downs AONB and the Chiltern Hills AONB provide the backdrop to the majority of the Ridgeway path. Through many of these protected parts of our island run many National Trails – there are 16 at the last count, including the Ridgeway – and I can certainly vouch for the clear and consistent ‘Acorn’ logo signposting.

A beech hedge of many colours

The Ridgeway National Trail extends to around 87 miles and was dedicated in 1973 – so it was (unknowingly) appropriate for me to choose this year of its 50th anniversary to enjoy all that the path has to offer. Along much of its length the path is reserved not just for walkers, but also for cyclists, horse riders and, on its ‘green lane’ sections, also for two and four-wheeled motor vehicles, subject to seasonal limitations.

This photo, from yesterday, states the details

All of this activity does lead to some rutted and some boggy and churned up stretches not best suited for walkers, but these are bearable and (to me anyway), and they become part of the challenge. Here is the story of my day, as I left the Downs for the Thames Valley.

Bright and early this morning, buying supplies in Wantage market
Picking up the Ridgeway path again, at Yew Down . . .
. . . just a short stroll, past more tumuli, to the Lord Wantage memorial, built in the early 20th Century in recognition of his creation of a model farm and village on the nearby Lockinge Estate
On these uplands the green tracks widen for some miles, and the open country provides attractive grazing for herds of deer (that always kept a good distance on my approach and never came within range of a shot – photo or otherwise)!
Stunning views to the north on this fine morning – interrupted here by Didcot Power Station (minus its cooling towers)
The gallops, on Blewbury Down . . .
. . . and into the final straight!
More autumn colour by the wayside
Descending the vale beneath Thurle Down . . .
. . . and then into glorious woodland, as the path turned towards the Thames
Almost at Streatley, the ‘halfway house’ on the Ridgeway path!
New views now – across the Thames Valley, to the Chiltern Hills beyond
Townhouses in Streatley . . .
. . . and crossing the Thames in Goring
The path turns northward from Goring for seven miles or so to Wallingford, running next to the river for the section to North Stoke
Not a bad spot for a water stop – and a few minutes to rest up!
The church at South Stoke . . .
. . . and its ‘Corner House’
Very ‘des res’
At North Stoke the path turns away from the river . . .
. . . and is well guarded
Crossing back over the river and into Wallingford, as twilight falls

A fabulous walking day was completed by the fine hospitality on offer from Jim at The Town Arms. The Ridgeway requires a detour of a mile or so to get into Wallingford, but the town is worth the diversion, and I hope to return one day to walk the Thames Path, another of our National Trails.

Golden wonder

* Distances: just as a footnote, the mileages stated in my headings are my total ‘boots on’ walking distances for the day; they exclude morning and evening wanders but include the sections of my trek required to get to the start of my daily Ridgeway walk, and in getting from the trail to my evening destination. So, for example, today’s 19.8 miles comprises 18.3 ‘Ridgeway miles’ (according to my OS map plots) and the 1.5 miles into Wallingford in getting me from the Ridgeway path. It is likely that my actual distance walked slightly exceeds these figures, on account of short diversions to look at various ‘wayside wonders’ and for taking photos, etc – as well as in the evasion of the many deep puddles and boggy areas!

In North Stoke churchyard, remembering the fallen

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