January February

Monday 26 to Wednesday 28 February 2024

Up on the icy Lakeland tops!

Many of my adventures in these Blogs have been solo challenges, albeit that I have been joined quite often by many friends from all walks of my life, to the extent that trekking has become, for me, not just an enjoyable exercise regime but also a central part of my social life. A big thank you goes out to all who have joined me on the trail over the years! But a special mention must go to those who I see on a weekly basis at home in Berkhamsted on our rambles in and around the Chilterns, usually with nordic poles in hand, and so what a great pleasure it has been to have spent the last three days with a dozen others from west Hertfordshire up here in the heart of the Cumbrian Lake District. We have had a wonderful few days, in the sun and in the rain, on and amongst the fells and over mealtimes and evenings at the Elterwater Hostel where we have been made very welcome indeed.

A group photo (with just one missing) before we set off

Our focus, and our ostensible reason for being here, is for the walking, and during two full days and a third morning walk we have covered nearly 30 miles and more than 1,800 metres of ascent, in all weathers. The following images show our routes and a selection of the many photos of our time in Lakeland.

Monday saw cold but settled and clear conditions, and so a long and high walk was in order: initially heading westward towards the head of Great Langdale the route climbed inexorably to the pyramidal summit of Pike of Blisco (705 metres of elevation) before descending on a similar gradient once more to the valley floor, for sustenance at the New Dungeon Ghyll Inn, and then back to Elterwater
Our walk profile makes for a clear depiction of the day’s activity
Our first stop, at Elterwater Quarry, where the 455 million year old Ordovician slate has been mined since Tudor times
Following directions . . .
. . . along the lower slopes of the valley
Crossing the Oxendale Brook . . .
. . . and then a familiar view – up Stickle Ghyll, my climb from yesterday (as reported in my last Blog)
Looking back down on the Great Langdale valley, as we paused for breath at the start of our climb across Wrynose Fell on the lower slopes of Pike of Blisco
Feeling my legs from yesterday and bringing up the rear (photo by Carrie) . . .
. . . but soon enough we all made it to the chilly summit of Pike of Blisco, for a brief refuelling and hydration stop
Great views over the snow-capped Helvellyn ridge . . .
. . . south over to The Old Man Of Coniston . . .
. . . and eastward beyond the Langdale Pikes, and with the snowy plateau of High Raise just in view
My obligatory summit photo . . .
. . . before we set out on the steep and rocky descent into the head of Great Langdale . . .
. . . sunshine greeting us as the gradient eased
Highland cattle at Stool End
A full team picture this time, at the Sticklebarn

The group had split for the highland section of the walk, but we reunited for drinks and a late lunch in the Sticklebarn café at Dungeon Ghyll, before a contented and leisurely stroll on the flat path back to Elterwater.

A model Air Ambulance . . .
. . . and feeding time for the sheep at Chapel Stile
A local dry-stone wall incorporating layers of slate – an interesting Cumbrian variation on boundary building

Thus concluded a very fine day in the hills: we made it back to the warm, and warming, hospitality of the Elterwater Hostel for a well-earned dinner and some lively exchanges on our day’s experiences. Aware that the weather is set for the wetter our plans for tomorrow’s walk have turned to lower routes around the Little Langdale valley, to the south of Elterwater.

Tuesday, as expected, saw the fells in cloud and rain, so we stayed low for the morning, taking a south-westerly route to the ‘Cathedral Cavern’ above Little Langdale, before turning eastward for coffees and lunch at ‘Chesters by the River’ in Skelwith Bridge: whilst the others returned to base five of us then skirted Loughrigg Tarn before climbing to the top of Loughrigg Fell (335 metres) before descending into Grasmere village

With the heavy morning rain, and some afternoon drizzle, I managed only infrequent photo stops today, but these few attempts might give a flavour of our day.

The rain brought out some vivid colours . . .
. . . in contrast to the greys and muted greens of today’s landscapes . . .
. . . whilst some of the mosses did their best to brighten our path
We crossed the stone arch of Slater Bridge (with thanks to Carrie again for this great photo) . . .
. . . for some murky views down the valley
Entering the Cathedral Cavern, an old slate mine just above Little Langdale . . .
. . . lit by a shaft of light . . .
. . . and into the ‘cathedral’ itself: a most impressive space, offering great acoustics for a group rendition of ‘Kum Ba Yah’, and some very welcome cover from the rain!
The falls just outside of Colwith, from where we proceeded to Skelwith Bridge for a welcome coffee and lunch at Chesters . . .
. . . and then it was back to the trail, passing this traditional Cumbrian gatepost on the way out of the village
Few views and no photos on the way up to the 335-metre peak of Loughrigg Fell – but I managed to find some protection from the driving rain to take a summit picture!
And, as the rain at last relented, so the views of Grasmere opened up
A scramble down the slope, where path-making is in progress . . .
. . . and along the moss-wall-lined lane . . .
. . . with views over the lake to Grasmere village . . .
. . . and behind to the now-conquered Loughrigg Fell
An interesting gate on the way into Grasmere village

Today we certainly enjoyed the full Lakeland experience; the rain seems to give a certain life to the fells, and the light never ceases to change with each passing minute. Dressed appropriately we had another fine walk, twelve miles and over 750 metres of ascent in all, before retreating to the warmth and dry of the local Britannia Inn in Elterwater and then for our final dinner at the hostel. Sweet dreams indeed!

A ‘Magic Money Tree’ in Ambleside

As with yesterday, Wednesday morning dawned cloudy and wet, and so our walking this morning was limited to a two-mile stroll around Ambleside and out on the ‘Waterfall Walk’ to Stockghyll Force, with some final photos to share as our break comes to an end.

A short Ambleside ramble today, up to Stockghyll Force and back around the town centre
The path out of town . . .
. . . to the lower falls (the ‘lip’ is man-made) . . .
. . . and on to the rather more impressive upper falls of Stockghyll Force
The arched bridge carrying the path over a small tributary, as we re-traced our steps back to Ambleside

And so we said our goodbyes – to each other and to the Lakes – before embarking upon our journeys home. Thank you all for your wonderful company, and to Hilary and Wendy in particular for making, so capably, all of our arrangements. See you all in the Chilterns very soon!

A summary of my five days of Lake District walks
A fond farewell to the Lakes: ‘I’ll be back’!

Just as a footnote, I am told that, technically and meteorologically, the impending change in month brings also a change in season as winter draws to a close. There have been moments of approaching spring already and, since my last post, the daffodils in these parts of Hertfordshire have started to bloom; but at other times winter has still held a grip on the countryside, and so it seems to have been on occasion during our fine walks in the Lake District. With the expected warming of the weather, and the approaching spring growth in the countryside, the outdoors is, as always, the place to be. Enjoy!

Daffodils in Berkhamsted, on the last day of winter

My Blog title today ‘January February’ is, rather appropriately, a composition by Cumberland-born Alan Tarney, a record producer perhaps best known for resurrecting Cliff Richard’s career in the late 1970’s and for producing ‘Take On Me’ for the Norwegian band A-ha in 1984. The song itself was first performed by Barbara Dickson in 1980, marking a change in career for the Scottish singer away from her folk roots and into mainstream pop – all alongside her various forays into musical theatre and acting. I have featured Barbara Dickson on this Blog before (‘Caravans’ on 14 September 2022), and I was fortunate last week to attend the penultimate concert of her ‘Farewell Tour’. Backed by four very talented musicians, the 76-year-old’s voice is still as clear as ever, and the gig showcased her eclectic portfolio, moving effortlessly between gaelic folk (a genre to which she has returned in recent years) and pop, alongside covers of numbers by the Beatles, Bob Dylan, JD Souther and Gerry Rafferty (on whose ‘City to City’ and ‘Night Owl’ albums she provided backing vocals in the late 1970’s), as well as her rendition of Tim Rice and Andrew Lloyd-Webber’s ‘Another Suitcase In Another Hall’ from ‘Evita’ (with which she had a hit in 1977). There was a palpable warmth to her performance, and in its reception from the audience, that made for a quite special evening!

Barbara Dickson and her band taking applause after their last ever performance in London – at Cadogan Hall on Thursday 22 February

One thought on “January February

  1. Nick you have captured the Lakeland trip so perfectly. Here’s hoping for a repeat next year- and I’ll climb the highest peaks for definite! It was great fun with good company – topped off by a few glasses of vino! Great stuff
    Linda

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