Rachel and I have come to love the north coast of Cornwall around St Agnes, following an introduction to the area a decade ago by some close friends with whom we have visited the area each autumn since. The weather is often as dramatic as the rocky shoreline in this part of the county, and the fabulous walks with their mining heritage and spectacular sea views are often punctuated by gusty winds and rain showers. And so it proved to be this Easter, at the start of a family week with our two sons and their partners, based from a holiday cottage overlooking the ocean in Trevaunance Cove beneath the town of St Agnes.
Two of our favourite north Cornwall walks here: the first a circular walk north-westwards from Trevaunance Cove along the South West Coast Path, then cutting inland to the top of St Agnes Beacon and back through the town, and the second an out-and-back eastward walk along the cliffs to Perranporth, again on the Coast Path
Our walks have all helped as a part of my training for my forthcoming LETJOG E2W trek – not that I have really thought much beyond enjoying the outdoors and the quality family time. I will spare you all any further reading, at least for the moment, and share some photos from our last two days of walking.
Squally showers out at seaRachel captured this downpour – from which we received a short but intense glancing blowWithin minutes calm was restored, and we even enjoyed some sunshine on the Coast Path past Newdowns Head . . .. . . and then a rainbow over the rocks of Cow and Calf . . .. . . that persisted as we approached the Coastguard Hut at St Agnes HeadGorse in bloom alongside the pathSome fine sea views westward along the cliffs of the peninsula . . .. . . that became further-reaching as we climbed to the top of St Agnes Beacon, at 192 metres of elevation: an inscription on the plaque reads ‘Legend has it that Giant Bolster could stand with one foot on St Agnes Beacon and the other on Carn Brea – Giant Bolster’s wife was made to clear the neighbouring fields of stones, and three aprons full are seen today as barrows (burial mounds) on top of the Beacon’Looking eastwards now, over St Agnes as far as the rocks off Penhale Point and beyondBack down into Trevaunance Cove we met with another shower and another rainbowSome big waves, as the tide came inNext morning, Easter Day, the climb up the cliffs eastwards from ‘our’ bayMine workings at Trevellas Porth . . .. . . and some early bluebells in the valleyFollowing the Coast Path, with views over Cligga Head . . .. . . then rounding the headland towards PerranporthEaster Sunday morning on Perranporth’s extensive sands . . .. . . with the flag of St Piran flying on the rocks In Trevaunance Cove this afternoon the Easter Sunday Dog Races attracted quite a crowd!
With the changing of the clocks and the lighter evenings we have a super week ahead of us to look forward to, and I hope to post some more photos in a few days’ time as my training for LETJOG E2W continues.
Of course all good walks need to be celebrated, and last night we did so in style at the unique Taphouse in St Agnes
I have been a touch creative today with my Bog heading ‘Ever Changing Moods’, as the full song title from which the words are borrowed reads ‘My Ever Changing Moods’, a composition by former Jam frontman Paul Weller. The number was released in 1984 on ‘Café Bleu’, the debut album of Weller’s then band The Style Council, and the lyrics contain phrases that include ‘the cool before the warm, the calm after the storm’, ‘the hush before the silence, the winds after the blast’, and ‘we’re caught up in a whirlwind and an ever changing mood’. Certainly the Cornwall skies of this Easter weekend have seemed at times fierce and angry, then within moments serene and welcoming: nature at her unpredictable best!
There is a gate on the Coast Path that celebrates the Motor Cycling Club (formed in 1901), close to this seat that marks fifty years of the ‘Auto Cycle Union End to End Reliability Trial’ for off-road motor biking, along the Cornish coast from Bude to Land’s End – quite a gruelling journey I am sure, even with engine power!