Border Song

LETJOG E2W – Day 4: Wednesday 17 April – BRESSINGHAM to THETFORD (17.0 miles)

Sat here in Thetford I feel this evening that I am starting to make some headway across the country. There is an unusual pleasure to be had on long treks such as this in reaching certain geographical landmarks. For example, the crossing of major transport arteries carries a disproportionate pleasure at times, and although there is a lack of these hereabouts, I have today traversed a significant topographical divide. My three-day flirtation with the River Waveney ended early this morning, just west of Bressingham, as I stood beside the particularly boggy area that marks the stream’s source. Moreover, across on the western side of the road (the B1113, that must sit on an unseen causeway), from a similar swamp rises the Little Ouse River just metres away! As I have seen first hand, the Waveney flows due east to the North Sea, whilst the Little Ouse flows westwards, joining the Great Ouse just north of Ely and emptying eventually into The Wash at Kings Lynn. A watershed crossed!

Topographical milestones aside, today was a truly fabulous walk. The sun made regular appearances between some huge cumulus clouds that did justice to Norfolk’s reputation for huge skies, the air was ‘good-for-walking’ cool, and the winds, gusting at times, were a notch or two down from yesterday’s gales. And this morning the landscape of farmland, woodland and fens combined seclusion with wondrous small-scale scenery, ignorant of the busyness of the wider world, and allowing ample space for contemplation. At Knettishall Heath Nature Reserve, where I stopped for a snack, the environment changed quite abruptly, as the fields and fens gave way to Breckland: alluvial farmland surrendered to sandy heathland, and deciduous copses to stands of conifers. Breckland is a unique and special place, and I will say some more on it tomorrow, but for now the photos of my day.

I have also had quite a successful day of wildlife spotting. I came upon more squirrels and rabbits today than I would normally see in a month. April is a good time to see hares, but I can only recall one other occasion (in North Norfolk, three years ago) when I have seen as many as today – at least two dozen. Deer, exclusively muntjacs I think, crossed my path or bounded off beside me on several occasions, whilst pheasants in full plumage, grey partridges, and a few grouse, seemed to be almost everywhere, and many woodpeckers were to be heard if not seen. But my real highlight was coming face to face with a startled stoat: usually very timid, caught out in the open before me, the small creature froze – as did I – just long enough for me to get a single photo.

So a marvellous day, and finally, before I turn in, just a quick shout-out to small business. Seemingly ignored by the major booking platforms, the B&B fraternity play a huge part in my walking challenges. They have certainly not had it easy through the last few years of Brexit, Covid, and the cost-of-living era, but their hospitality goes a long way with us walkers. My thanks to Valerie and Nigel at The Treetops B&B in Bungay, and to Dave and Denise at The White House in Bressingham – all fine hosts indeed, and providers of an excellent breakfast that negates the need for much of a pack lunch. And while I’m at it, the Green Dragon pub in Thetford serves the best pint of Timothy Taylor’s Landlord Bitter this side of Keighley (for half the London price), and their recommendation of the recently relocated New Saffron Indian Restaurant was spot-on – a great dinner, and good luck to Rihan and the team as their business expands.

Border Song is a composition by Elton John, to words by his longtime lyricist Bernie Taupin, and the song title makes a fitting Blog heading for me today as I continue to bisect East Anglia. The number has a gospel flavour (and indeed was later covered by Aretha Franklyn): it was released in March 1970 on Elton’s self-titled debut album.