LETJOG E2W – Day 21: Saturday 4 May – LAMPETER to NEWCASTLE EMLYN (18.8 miles)

Planning a long walk such as my LETJOG E2W trek involves covering some fairly substantial distances, and sometimes this means a road walk to ‘get the miles in’ rather than the ‘off-piste’ country route along fields and footpaths, woods and tracks. Today was one such day – I had planned an ambitious 25-mile alternative ‘green route’, but after the ascents and exertions of the last few days I just didn’t have the legs to take on this more demanding option. So lanes it was, and if I missed something of the intricacies and intimacies of this beautiful part of Britain, then I have the consolation of another wonderful day in the outdoors nonetheless, and a safe and timely arrival at my next overnight refuge en route to my ferry at Fishguard. A stepping stone indeed!


You may have noticed that two days ago, Builth Wells to Llandovery, my path turned 45 degrees from westward to south-west, and that yesterday, Llandovery to Lampeter, I turned again, perpendicular this time and to the north-west. All of this manoeuvring was in order to get around, and over, the Cambrian Mountains that run roughly north-south across central Wales. My climbs of the last two days, over two cols, saw me through the range, and today, turning due west once again in line with my mission, I entered new country – that of rolling hills and pasture, in place of moorland. My chosen route has therefore entailed walking two sides of a triangle perhaps, but it was the most feasible path that I could envisage for my own capabilities. Back on my westward track today I enjoyed some fine scenery and ever-brightening weather, as the pictures show.






















As ‘stepping stones’ go, this 21st day of my LETJOG E2W trek, completing three weeks now of walking, proved a remarkably fine ramble over some lovely country, even if I did, for once, forsake the more appealing footpaths in the interests of faster progress on the roads and lanes. I certainly intend to return soon, with Rachel, to explore the area in rather more depth. And I must add a final comment on the people of this region: as I said yesterday at my last stop in Lampeter, and again tonight in Newcastle Emlyn, everyone seems so incredibly welcoming, and there is no such thing here, it seems, as dining alone!

Today’s Blog heading Stepping Stone’ is borrowed from a song title by Welsh songstress Duffy, off her 2008 debut album ‘Rockferry’. The number was co-written by Duffy with songwriter and producer Steve Booker, and received widespread acclaim, along with the earlier singles from the album ‘Mercy’ and ‘Warwick Avenue’. Duffy’s recordings on ‘Rockferry’ have been likened to Dusty Springfield and to Duffy’s contemporary Amy Winehouse.


Yesterday’s blog has left me thinking about another tune “many rivers to cross” and struggling to remember who it was by. It’s suddenly come to be – UB40 was the band. Glad the weather brightened up for you. There’s a location near Fishguard where the stones at Stonehenge are thought to have come from. Worth exploring if you can accommodate it as you approach your last lap in Wales.
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