Stepping Stone

LETJOG E2W – Day 21: Saturday 4 May – LAMPETER to NEWCASTLE EMLYN (18.8 miles)

Today was a day of verdant waysides, along roads and lanes; bluebells aplenty, and here some periwinkles and early buttercups

Planning a long walk such as my LETJOG E2W trek involves covering some fairly substantial distances, and sometimes this means a road walk to ‘get the miles in’ rather than the ‘off-piste’ country route along fields and footpaths, woods and tracks. Today was one such day – I had planned an ambitious 25-mile alternative ‘green route’, but after the ascents and exertions of the last few days I just didn’t have the legs to take on this more demanding option. So lanes it was, and if I missed something of the intricacies and intimacies of this beautiful part of Britain, then I have the consolation of another wonderful day in the outdoors nonetheless, and a safe and timely arrival at my next overnight refuge en route to my ferry at Fishguard. A stepping stone indeed!

It was roads and lanes pretty much all day today, as I took the main road out of Lampeter, a highway that thankfully got quieter with every westward mile, as the route undulated over pasture-land and through small villages . . .
. . . whilst the second half of the walk, in sunshine now, had a few opportunities for some short off-road diversions, before joining the highway again into my destination town of Newcastle Emlyn

You may have noticed that two days ago, Builth Wells to Llandovery, my path turned 45 degrees from westward to south-west, and that yesterday, Llandovery to Lampeter, I turned again, perpendicular this time and to the north-west. All of this manoeuvring was in order to get around, and over, the Cambrian Mountains that run roughly north-south across central Wales. My climbs of the last two days, over two cols, saw me through the range, and today, turning due west once again in line with my mission, I entered new country – that of rolling hills and pasture, in place of moorland. My chosen route has therefore entailed walking two sides of a triangle perhaps, but it was the most feasible path that I could envisage for my own capabilities. Back on my westward track today I enjoyed some fine scenery and ever-brightening weather, as the pictures show.

Grey skies once more this morning, but no rain!
Some farmland views as the road left Lampeter
Many rivers to cross . . .
. . . and quite a few closed businesses, so no chance of a coffee stop on the route today
A backwards glance at the Cambrian Mountains, now in the east . . .
. . . and forward across the pastures
A short diversion across some moorland . . .
. . . and another across this grassy dell
Looking down on the cattle and across the fields, with some arable crops in view again now
A horseshoe kugle
Blue skies and bucolic bliss
Far off hills to the north
Cottages on the main road, now more of a quiet country lane
Coming towards Newcastle Emlyn, by the River Teifi
Another off-road path, by the river . . .
. . . and just by my overnight refuge at Llanybri, the site of Wales’ first printing press
An evening stroll around Newcastle Emlyn tonight, in search of dinner!
Everything looks quiet . . .
. . . but how many High Streets have this view . . .
. . . or a 13th century castle on hand?
The gatehouse . . .
. . . and the view from the top of the earthworks – just wonderful!

As ‘stepping stones’ go, this 21st day of my LETJOG E2W trek, completing three weeks now of walking, proved a remarkably fine ramble over some lovely country, even if I did, for once, forsake the more appealing footpaths in the interests of faster progress on the roads and lanes. I certainly intend to return soon, with Rachel, to explore the area in rather more depth. And I must add a final comment on the people of this region: as I said yesterday at my last stop in Lampeter, and again tonight in Newcastle Emlyn, everyone seems so incredibly welcoming, and there is no such thing here, it seems, as dining alone!

Count the rings – how many centuries old was this fallen oak?

Today’s Blog heading Stepping Stone’ is borrowed from a song title by Welsh songstress Duffy, off her 2008 debut album ‘Rockferry’. The number was co-written by Duffy with songwriter and producer Steve Booker, and received widespread acclaim, along with the earlier singles from the album ‘Mercy’ and ‘Warwick Avenue’. Duffy’s recordings on ‘Rockferry’ have been likened to Dusty Springfield and to Duffy’s contemporary Amy Winehouse.

And so the sun sets on a fine walking day – and, yes, I did find dinner, at Moes Spice: this is becoming a walk fuelled by curry!

One thought on “Stepping Stone

  1. Yesterday’s blog has left me thinking about another tune “many rivers to cross” and struggling to remember who it was by. It’s suddenly come to be – UB40 was the band. Glad the weather brightened up for you. There’s a location near Fishguard where the stones at Stonehenge are thought to have come from. Worth exploring if you can accommodate it as you approach your last lap in Wales.

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