LETJOG E2W – Day 24: Tuesday 7 May – FISHGUARD to ST DAVIDS HEAD (22.7 miles)
Time to put my feet up for half an hour, after covering 20 miles or so today, and around 415 miles on foot since I walked out of Lowestoft on the North Sea coast of Suffolk, 23 days ago
I explained yesterday that I had added today’s walk to my LETJOG E2W schedule quite recently. It just did not seem right to walk all the way from Great Britain’s eastern extremity at Lowestoft then only to stop short at Fishguard for the ferry to Ireland and without visiting St Davids Head. This headland, although not quite the very western tip of the Welsh mainland, is that part of the Principality closest to the Emerald Isle. And despite the early start and the long road walk to get to the tip of the peninsula, what a fine and (latterly) sunny day this proved to be: a fitting end to my traverse of England and Wales, and certainly worth every ounce of added effort!
My walk today took me out of Fishguard town, south-westwards along main roads quiet in the early morning, for about six miles, and then on to minor lanes through pasture and moorland . . .. . . before eventually picking up some footpaths and tracks through gorse-lined fields, to Whitesands Bay, and thence up onto St Davids Head – a return back past the Bay and into the small city of St Davids completed my day’s trek
And so, as I sit here to write this account, with my feet up and a certain glow of accomplishment, the first major part of my challenge is complete, and tomorrow I depart these shores for Ireland. More on my thoughts for Part Two tomorrow, and meanwhile herewith the pictures of my final day in Wales.
Under grey skies in the early morning, this house in Fishguard centre certainly stands out . . .. . . whilst this dragon lurks on the outer edge of townRich pastures all the way out along my path . . .. . . with just some occasional arable land . . .. . . and gorse hedgerows bounding patches of unproductive moorlandThe low mist, a sea fret, seemed to increase as the morning progressed, engulfing the tops of the nearby hillsThe volcano-profiled Carn Penberry appeared ahead of me for several miles, before my path veered to the south of the mount . . .. . . at last off the lanes and along footpaths . . .. . . towards the next peak, Carn PerfeddAnother view of Perfedd, head in the clouds . . .. . . as I neared the coastThe beach at Whitesands Bay, a childhood holiday destination that I had not returned to for around 60 years . . .. . . and so a fitting place to dip my feet, once more, in the Irish Sea!Just one small part of my westward journey across Great Britain remains – out to the tip of St Davids Head, seen here beyond the sands and across the waterThe upward path . . .. . . nearly there . . .. . . and at last – made it – to my westernmost point in Wales!The locals tell me that on a clear day one can see Ireland across the channel from this headland, but unfortunately this is not quite possible todayThe sun burned through the mist as I retraced my steps to Whitesands Bay . . .. . . some great views along the Coast Path . . .. . . as I made my way eventually into St Davids CityThe Bishop’s Palace . . .. . . and a spectacular cathedral for such a small communityChristian worship has taken place on this site continuously for 1,500 yearsMy final steps took me to the bus stop by the city’s Market Cross
From St Davids it proved quite straightforward to find a bus back to Fishguard – an hour’s journey that made me realise how far I had walked today. Public transport is usually banned on my challenges, but of course this was an eastbound trip, a journey taken to return me to the ferry port, for my sea crossing to Ireland tomorrow, and LETJOG E2W Part Two. Exciting times!
A big thank-you to Steve who runs the James John Hamilton Hostel in the centre of Fishguard, which has provided me with a most convenient, comfortable and characterful base for the last two days, up in the attic room
‘Sitting On The Edge Of The Ocean’ is a song recorded by husky-voiced South Wales singer Bonnie Tyler, from her 1981 album ‘Goodbye To The Island’. Although the song is not one of Tyler’s more recognised numbers it seems an appropriate Blog heading for today, summing up my experience quite nicely. The song itself was written by Ronnie Scott and Steve Wolfe who wrote several numbers for Tyler in that immediate period – two years or so before she teamed up with Jim Steinman for her ‘Faster Than The Speed Of Night’ album, that included one of her best-known hits, ‘Total Eclipse Of The Heart’.
Tonight, in the Royal Oak pub in Fishguard, whilst I awaited my takeaway to be prepared nearby, I happened briefly upon an Irish Folk evening – more of these to follow when I have a little more time and energy, I am hoping!
2 thoughts on “Sitting On The Edge Of The Ocean”
Lowestoft to Fishguard. Great achievement Nick. Hope there’s not too much road walking in Ireland as like Scotland, there are fewer footpaths than we enjoy in England & Wales.
Very well done, Nick, to have come so far – a massive achievement.
I loved your photos which brought back some happy memories of when, about 10 years ago, I cycled with three friends from Lowestoft to St. David’s. Such a wonderful experience.
Walking for Fun, Challenge and Charity! 
Lowestoft to Fishguard. Great achievement Nick. Hope there’s not too much road walking in Ireland as like Scotland, there are fewer footpaths than we enjoy in England & Wales.
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Very well done, Nick, to have come so far – a massive achievement.
I loved your photos which brought back some happy memories of when, about 10 years ago, I cycled with three friends from Lowestoft to St. David’s. Such a wonderful experience.
Sally
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