The Irish Rover

LETJOG E2W – Day 25: Wednesday 8 May – FERRY CROSSING from FISHGUARD to ROSSLARE (9.0 miles)

I must make sure that I get on the right boat!

When first planning this LETJOG E2W challenge, my logic in choosing the Fishguard to Rosslare ferry route – as opposed to Pembroke to Rosslare or, much further north, Holyhead (on Anglesey) to Dun Laoghaire (near Dublin) – is that the route provides the shortest sea crossing distance between the two largest islands of the British Isles, namely Great Britain and the island of Ireland. Likewise, St Davids Head, where Pembrokeshire finally meets the Irish Sea, is the closest part of Wales to the Emerald Isle – to Greenore Point in fact, just at the entrance to Rosslare Harbour where I arrived this afternoon.

By way of comparison, this OS App plot of my short walk from Fishguard town centre to the ferry port at Goodwick Quay this lunchtime . . .
. . . stands against this photo extract of my newly-acquired paper map: this evening I took a loop from my hotel (on the green road near the Harbour, where it says ‘Ballygillane’), out along the lanes to the beach at Greenore Point, and then up onto the low headland for a return walk along the cliffs and back through the town – my first taste, on this trip, of walking in Ireland

This day of my LETJOG E2W started in unfamiliar fashion, with a relaxed breakfast and a morning of desk work at my base, the James John Hamilton Hostel in Fishguard. On a venture such as this trip there are a great many logistical tasks to sort, and so a morning of route planning and accommodation booking for the days ahead (as well as sorting out my phone package to ensure international coverage, and an array of deferred life admin tasks) did not go amiss. I should now be vaguely ready for at least the next few days, after I set foot in Ireland tonight. Here are a few photos of the rest of my day.

Standing in the dock at Fishguard, eating chocolate cake in a bag: after my morning at the desk, I took a quick lunch in The Shack on the beach at Fishguard, where a mini-photo-shoot ensued (so I should be on The Shack’s social media platforms shortly), before I was kindly sent on my way by Kylie and Anya, replete with cake for the sea crossing!
About to board the ferry
Au revoir to Fishguard . . .
. . . and to Wales, with Dinas Head in the foreground
Land ahoy! Four hours or so later, passing the Tuskar Rock Lighthouse, as we approached Rosslare Harbour: built between 1812 and 1815, the beacon was commissioned following the loss of many ships on this treacherous outcrop
Turning to port, and into port
. . . past the jetty
. . . and into Rosslare
Well, it was a straightforward crossing this afternoon – bang on time, not too crowded, and the sea, unusually for this ferry route (or so I am told), was, as they say, ‘as still as a millpond’: and now I am on Irish soil!
After checking into my hotel, Ferryport House, an evening stroll was in order, to reach Greenore Point, the headland that guards Rosslare Harbour
The walk turned out to be over six miles, as access was thwarted by these gates . . .
. . . and there was certainly no way through this gorse thicket . . .
. . . but eventually I found the path to Greenore beach . . .
. . . and I had the place all to myself at this late hour of the day
The path up on to the cliffs – I guess this is where the Ireland leg of my E2W walk really begins!
The trig point on Greenore Point . . .
. . . and the view out to sea, where my Stena Line ferry from earlier had just pulled out of dock on its return voyage
Ireland is famous for its horses, and these three were certainly in sociable mood as I passed their field earlier tonight
It seems that I have been walking out-of-bounds, so at my own risk – isn’t that ever the case?
The ‘official’ path back into Rosslare Harbour

Embarking on this second leg of my LETJOG E2W challenge, in Ireland, brings with it a lot of change. Day to day the biggest difference that I shall notice is that without the OS App mapping coverage on my phone I shall now be relying on paper maps, and perhaps my compass also – a return to past practice, and old navigation skills that I won’t be too distressed about. As can be seen above, this will mean that I am unable to continue including the digital maps of my walks each day on this Blog, and so a photo of a conventional map segment may be the best way to indicate my whereabouts. The other thing to say is that I may have less reliable data signal and wifi henceforth, so if my Blog does not arrive at the customary time every evening then please do not concern yourselves too much as to my fate – I will do what I can to get each Blog out as soon as I can! It certainly feels now like the dawn of another walking adventure . . .

As at St Davids Head yesterday, the light mist today precluded any remote prospect of seeing right across the water and back to Wales

‘The Irish Rover’ from which I have borrowed today’s Blog heading is an Irish folk song that has been recorded by numerous artists over the years. The lyrics feature a gigantic multi-masted sailing ship, and a cast of colourful characters who are all set to perish, bar the narrator and, briefly at least, the Captain’s dog. Perhaps it is not the best sea story to ponder when crossing the notorious Irish Sea, so I will take the ‘Rover’ to be a traveller, rather than a reference to a ship. The version of the song that I am including on my playlist is the 1987 recording by The Pogues alongside The Dubliners, that reached Number 8 on the UK charts. The song means something to Rachel and I as it was adopted as our anthem on a trip with friends through South-East Asia thirty-odd years ago, with the words changed to match our company’s own characters – one of the group would somehow procure a guitar from time to time and perform the song for us on certain evenings. Happy days!

A perfect spot for my picnic dinner, once more overlooking the Irish Sea, but this time towards the east!

6 thoughts on “The Irish Rover

  1. Looks like fine weather at present – hope it continues for you. Some fine Irish sing-a-longs coming up in the evenings! Why does Guinness always taste best in Ireland?

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  2. LOVE the picnic bench shot 😍

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  3. I well remember those beer fuelled nights singing “The Irish Rover”. Happy memories. Best wishes for your Irish E2W adventure ☘️

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  4. From my memories of Ireland you’ll be getting the best food and drink ever, and at any time of day and night (however that was 20 yrs ago) but don’t ask the way if you get lost! ‘what!!!! Starting from here???’

    The most charming of people- have fun!

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