Alone Again (Naturally)

LETJOG E2W – Day 30: Monday 13 May – KILMACTHOMAS to DUNGARVAN (14.8 miles)

I have not had this happen before: a snapped nordic pole!

What a difference a day makes! Yesterday warm sunshine, today horizontal driving rain and mist, making the first four hours of my trek a trudge in the wet, cocooned and blinkered within my waterproofs. I thought, as I left Cian and Nicola this morning, that I had enjoyed the full Irish experience over the weekend, but of course there was a missing component – the rain! I now feel suitably initiated.

The blue line shows my route, with the asterisks being the daily destination points on my walk: so this morning Cian dropped me off in Kilmacthomas at the point in the village that I had reached yesterday afternoon – from there I simply continued to follow the Waterford Greenway on its straight and flat path all the way to Dungarvan on the south coast (bottom left on the map)
This depiction of the Waterford Greenway, from a signboard at my destination today, perhaps shows my route from Waterford to Dungarvan a little better

As for my broken nordic pole, there was no spectacular ‘event’; the carbon fibre shaft simply snapped as I was poling on the flat, I guess as a result of some repetitive strain injury. At just about the time of this calamity I passed the 500-mile mark on this LETJOG E2W trek, and I estimate, all told, that the poles have accompanied me on somewhere in excess of 3,000 walking miles over the three years of my various ‘challenge’ treks, plus many regular walks at home. So they have been fine servants. The pole is a ‘special order’ fixed-length piece of kit, so I cannot replace it immediately – fortunately so as far as this current walk is concerned its loss is clearly not a show-stopper, but I shall miss it over the remaining days. Anyway, I hit the trail solo again this morning – my phone/camera stashed deep within my rucksack, keeping dry, for most of the time: but I did manage to get a few pictures of my walking day.

Starting out over the Kilmacthomas Viaduct (or should that be aqueduct?) this morning . . .
. . . with views down onto the village and over Flahavan’s porridge oat factory: after this the rain really started in earnest . . .
. . . and so it was eight miles or so down the path, at the 400-yard Ballyvoyle Tunnel, that I next had enough cover to retrieve the phone from my rucksack
A pause in the rain, at last, on my way through the tunnel . . .
. . . and a brief stop for a drink (more water!) and a snack
Emerging from the forest I could hear a roar that seemed to be another huge gust of wind in the trees, but as the mist cleared I found myself on the coast, with waves crashing below
Wet, wet, wet!
Three miles from Dungarvan there is a coffee shop that I took full advantage of whilst the rain abated a little: with mist still in the air and on the nearby hills, and soggy ground by the waysides, at least on the path I had a drier end to the day’s ramble
Heading onto the causeway at Clonea Bay . . .
. . . looking inland over the mudflats . . .
. . . and out across Dungarvan Harbour at low tide
The town ahead at last . . .
. . . and an opportunity for a short beach walk
The salt marshes on the edge of town . . .
. . . and approaching the quayside
This buoy is a memorial to the 20 lost seafarers who perished with the sinking of the MV Moresby on Christmas Eve 1895, as it fled from a storm

Showered and rested I emerged this evening from my digs to blue skies and a high tide, that rather transformed the views from the quayside over the harbour area.

Looking out to Dungarvan Harbour entrance . . .
. . . and across the bay
Dinner of fresh fish tonight on the quay . . .
. . . and a final wander by the water

This morning marked the last occasion on this LETJOG E2W trek that I have any company planned, so I am indeed alone again, naturally, for the duration now. That is not to say that I won’t continue to meet a great many friendly and interesting people along the way – that is the very much the nature of this adventure, and particularly, it seems, here in Ireland. Booking accommodation is not straightforward though and options are often limited, but I am now covered for the next few days as far as Cork. An early night beckons for the excitement ahead!

Dungarvan was settled by the Vikings as long ago as AD 900; later a Norman fortress on this site was replaced in the late 12th Century with a stone castle to protect the harbour

My Blog heading today ‘Alone Again (Naturally)’ follows the song title of a 1972 introspective ballad, written and performed by Waterford-born singer-songwriter Gilbert O’Sullivan. The song had great commercial success worldwide (including in the US, where it sold over two million copies and spent six weeks at Number 1 on Billboard’s Hot 100 chart). Originally not included on his 1972 album ‘Back To Front’, the number was later added onto re-issues replacing another of O’Sullivan’s best known hits, ‘Clair’.

At the Waterford County Museum in Dungarvan, a local hero is commemorated

2 thoughts on “Alone Again (Naturally)

  1. Sad to lose a Nordic Pole as I’m sure your equipment feels like part of you on your adventure. Sounds like a tough day in the rain. I was just able to read a “Love United Hate Glazers” on the Waterford Greenway sign.

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  2. Sorry about the stick. Sorry about the rain. Hope at least you had a brilliant night. You are amazing 😳. Thinking of you as I lie here in the warm. Jane x (Betty)

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