Eviva España

Thursday 3 April 2025

For centuries immemorial pilgrims from all over Western Europe have made their way on foot across hills and hollows, over rivers and ranges, and through forests and fields, on the paths that lead to Santiago de Compostela in northern Spain. Their mission, traditionally, has been to reach the Galician capital and to worship in its stunning and sacred cathedral that, since the Ninth Century, has been thought to house the relics of St James the Apostle. Nowadays such hikes have taken on additional purposes, often linked to the legacy and to the mystique of these unique Santiago trails; those of meditation, of self-reflection, of escapism, and out of historical, geological, and botanical interest, or perhaps merely born from the curiosity of being a pilgrim, or of serenity whilst testing one’s endurance on the trail, or of eventual accomplishment in treading the length of an ancient pathway.

A number of these many facets of such a walk appeal to me, and so with a reasonably fit body and an open mind, I have decided to take the plunge on another trekking challenge: the 800 kilometre (500 mile) Camino Francés, from St Jean Pied de Port in southwest France, up and over the Pyrenees, and then across northern Spain to the shrine at Santiago de Compostela in Galicia.

In undertaking this trek I am thankful as ever to Rachel, for bearing with me through my preparations during some particularly busy family times, and for allowing me the freedom to indulge my passions of walking, travelling and writing. Indeed, if I am to complete the Camino Francés in one continuous hike, then I will be away for a period of up to five weeks. I already have most of the required kit, such as it is, from my earlier walks, although I have just invested in a lightweight (690 gram) ‘mummy’ sleeping bag that I shall need for the various dormitories, hostels and auberges that I am likely to be staying in. Getting all of this into my 30-litre rucksack, whilst keeping the weight down to an optimal 7.5 kilos, is proving quite a challenge, but I shall be carrying my own pack for over a month so prudent packing is essential.

As for route planning I have no ready ‘Ordnance Survey-style’ app on my phone (as I have had previously on my UK hikes), but I do have the excellent ‘Practical and Mystical Manual For The Modern-Day Pilgrim’ by John Brierley. This guide details every stage of the Camino Francés, including accommodation and refreshment options, as well as the historical and topographical landmarks to look out for along the way. I have already begun to lose myself on the trail, without a step yet being completed.

Although the Camino Francés is well-trodden and well-provided in terms of route-finding and facilities, I admit not just to a sense of excitement but to some apprehension ahead of my trip. I speak very little Spanish, and I have become accustomed to rather more overnight privacy on my UK treks than the Camino accommodation might provide, but I do have some insights from two friends who have completed the walk in recent years. I am told that a sociable and life-enhancing experience awaits me when I commence my journey on Monday. So, somewhat reassured, I will post another update here in a couple of days, with a little more on my motivations and preparations for the pilgrimage. Until then thank you for following this Blog, and I hope that you can join my Camino Francés journey through my photos and musings on these Blog posts over the next few weeks.

The song Eviva España’, the title I have taken for today’s Blog heading, is a 1971 composition by composer Leo Caerts and the Dutch lyricist Leo Rozenstraten, written in the latter’s native tongue. The number was first performed by the Belgian singer Samantha, and it was delivered in a suitably Spanish pasodoble style. In actual fact the words of the heading do not really make sense in Spanish, although the sentiment of the writers appears to be sound, probably along the lines of ‘que viva España’ that translates to ‘long live Spain’. Notwithstanding all of this, the song seems appropriately upbeat for my Camino announcement, and in reflecting my anticipation of adventures to come.