Move On Up

CAMINO FRANCÉS – Day 1: Wednesday 9 April 2025 – ST JEAN PIED de PORT to ESPINAL (32 [+3] kilometres)*

It is a wonderful feeling to be stepping out of my B&B, early morning in the half light, to a clear sky and mist in the hollows, to the smell of damp grass and absolute silence save for some early birds. I am thrilled that this day has come at last, and rejoicing in the fact that those 150 or so folk starting the Camino Francés today with me have a clear forecast for our Pyrenean climb.

Today’s first section of The Way of St James (as the Camino Francés is known alternatively) is reckoned to be one of the very most demanding on the whole trek. The high trail, that is known as The Napoleon Route, has only been open, officially, for two days – the authorities scheduled their snow clearing to be done by Monday 7 April, although in fact the warmer weather of the last week or two has melted away any snow that was lying on or around the path. So perfect conditions today, for our ascent!

St Jean lies at 170 metres of elevation, and the climb (which would take me nearly six hours), is unerringly upward, eventually to the Col de Bentartea at 1,340 metres above sea level where the path crosses from France into Spain, ahead of the final trek up to the Col de Lepoeder at 1,450 metres. In total, the cumulative height gain for the day, according to my guidebook, is just ten metres short of 1,500 metres. So, quite a day to kick off with!

My walk today took very nearly ten hours, including breaks – which is fairly close to the Rule of Naismith that predicts one hour for each five kilometres of walking, plus one hour for each 600 metres of climb. However the calculations, I can certainly feel my legs tonight, and (most of all) my shoulders from the unfamiliar duration of poling. A good meal in Espinal’s one restaurant beckons.

* The main distance stated beneath my daily title heading is the number of kilometres along the Camino Francés path itself. The figure in brackets is the additional distance walked off the way (eg for diversions en route, or in reaching my overnight accommodation, and for my ‘evening stroll’ in search of dinner)!

Today’s Blog heading ‘Move On Up’ follows the 1970 song of that title written, produced and performed by the ‘Gentle Genius’ of soul, Curtis Mayfield. The number appeared on the US artist’s debut album ‘Curtis’ and was released as a single in 1971: it failed to chart in the US, possibly because the album track is nine minutes long, but an edited version spent ten weeks on the UK chart that year, peaking at No 12. It has been acknowledged since as a soul classic, and has been covered by many other artists, including Paul Weller (with both of his best-known bands, The Jam and The Style Council). The number is recognised on both sides of ‘The Pond’ as one of the great soul classics, and the lyrics carry some relevance to those walking (upwards), and perhaps to life in general.

Hush now child and don’t you cry
Your folks might understand you by and by

Just move on up towards your destination
Though you may find from time to time complications

Bite your lip and take a trip
Though there may be wet road ahead
And you cannot slip

Just move on up for peace you will find
Into the steeple of beautiful people where there’s only one kind

So hush now child and don’t you cry
Your folks might understand you by and by

Move on up and keep on wishing
Remember your dream is your only scheme so keep on pushing

Take nothing less than the supreme best
Do not obey rumors people say ’cause you can past the test

Just move on up to a greater day
With just a little faith
If you put your mind to it, you can surely do it