CAMINO FRANCÉS – Day 2: Thursday 10 April 2025 – ESPINAL to PAMPLONA (36 [+6] kilometres)
Along the way to Santiago de Compostela
What better way to follow yesterday’s long first day on the Camino Francés than with another marathon! Having walked on last afternoon to Espinal (about 7 kilometres past the usual Day 1 resting place in Roncesvalles), I figured this morning (wisely or otherwise) that it was just about possible to trek as far as Pamplona in a day. I was described by one trekker this morning, along the way, as ‘amazing – crazy amazing’, in attempting this feat after the rigours of yesterday. But actually, with another early start, some company on the trail to Zubiri (for lunchtime), and some easier terrain this afternoon, the walk proved just about possible. And so, after another 9.5 hours on the trail, I stumbled into the city of Pamplona late in the afternoon.
This map shows my first two days’ walk on the Camino – the blue shows yesterday’s section from St Jean to Espinal, and the pink today’s westward trek into PamplonaThis map shows in a bit more detail, for those interested, my path (in the heavy red line) this morning to Zubiri, where I stopped for lunch . . .. . . and the afternoon hike into Pamplona
My excellent guidebook (John Brierley’s ‘Camino Francés, The Way of St James, A Practical & Mystical Manual For the Modetn-day Pilgrim’) has already become my bible – for route planning, accommodation finding, restaurants, sight-seeing, etc. The book divides the Camino into 33 ‘Stages’ and, as of tonight, I have now completed the remainder of Stage 2 (the beginning of which I walked yesterday) plus the whole of Stage 3. As a result of these two long days of walking I am now a day ahead of schedule, but it is not my intention to hurry the Camino experience, and so I have booked my hotel in Pamplona for two nights. This plan should now give me a day of rest and recuperation, and also allow me a little time to look around Pamplona, to do some shopping for ‘essentials’, and to catch up with my accommodation booking, Blog writing and my various other administrative tasks. Here are a few photos of my day.
Another day, another dawn – leaving Espinal in the morning glowA short climb to start, then a gentle path down . . .. . . through beech-woods . . .. . . into open pastures . . .. . . and then crossing the narrow Rio ErroOn the climb out of Viskarret . . .. . . with Shelley, from Colorado, my companion for the rest of the morningTwo became four, as we teamed up with Andreja (Slovenia) and Akemi (Japan, now based in Italy) – I have met people now from all over Europe and from every other continent of the world: the Camino truly has global appealOur path followed a ridge within deciduous trees, then into pine woods, where the way became treacherous for a while, rutted with the strata of the hard bedrockIn the pine trees, we saw many of these spider tree-housesOver the bridge into Zubiri, for a well-earned and hearty meal of coffee, tortilla, and hard-boiled eggs in a hot and creamy cheese sauceSolo this afternoon, I had a super walk down through the verdant valley of the Rio Arga: woodland paths, water meadows, and not a soul on the track all afternoon (I assume that all those who stayed in Zubiri last night would have walked through this section to Pamplona during the morning)Crossing the Rio Arga again . . .. . . and back into the woods, where chains of caterpillars formed these ‘snakes’: safety in numbers no doubtThis signboard shows the variety of birds of prey in the region – yesterday, on the cols, we saw many such raptors, one of which, huge, and with a small mammal in its talons, was described to me by a fellow walker as a griffon vulture (they certainly exist out here, with wingspans of up to 2.5 metres)Closer to the ground, some clumps of vivid purple flowers that I am not familiar with (please let me know if you can identify these)Past Zuriáin, and an easier path by the river again, before a short climb to ArletaA first view of the Pamplona outskirtsAt Arre, crossing the Rio Ulzama (that joins the waters of the Arga just downstream from here) . . .. . . where I spent a few minutes in contemplation in the cool, just like a true pilgrimComing into Pamplona now, and good to see the Camino sign still prominentJourney’s end, at least for today – coming into the historic centre of Pamplona via the Portal de Francia
So resting up tonight, after a late dinner of quesadillas in the bustling centre of Pamplona’s historic heart, I now have a ‘rest day’ in prospect. I look forward to sharing my Pamplona experience with you all shortly.
I have certainly been made welcome in this region – so many people, especially children, seem to greet pilgrims such as me with cries of ‘Gran Camino’, and I have even been applauded on the trail twice by groups of school children (I would have happily taken a photo, but I don’t think that’s allowed these days – or is that just in the UK)?
‘Stumblin’ In’ is the title of a song written by Mike Chapman and Nicky Chinn, that was recorded as a duet by Chris Norman (vocalist of the soft rock band Smokie) and Suzi Quatro in 1978. The title just about sums up my arrival into Pamplona earlier this evening.
Ever onwards!
4 thoughts on “Stumblin’ In”
well done Nick, no wonder you need an extra rest day. Great photos which bring your whole
journey to life. Don’t know what the purple flowers are. Stunning views make me wish I was 10 or 15 years younger and could manage part of this amazing walk myself ! blessings on you and thanks for keeping me on your list of correspondents! Liz B.
Pamplona – bull races through the streets is what it’s most famous for I think. Enjoy your rest day – well deserved after that 9+ hours epic straight after a big first day.
Walking for Fun, Challenge and Charity! 
well done Nick, no wonder you need an extra rest day. Great photos which bring your whole
journey to life. Don’t know what the purple flowers are. Stunning views make me wish I was 10 or 15 years younger and could manage part of this amazing walk myself ! blessings on you and thanks for keeping me on your list of correspondents! Liz B.
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Hi Nick
Your stamina amazes me! Another lovely day’s walking……very nice reading about it. The plant is Purple Toothwort (Lathraea clandestina).
Betty
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Great stuff Nick. Another fabulous day, and a fabulous song to go with it. Enjoy your day off!
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Pamplona – bull races through the streets is what it’s most famous for I think. Enjoy your rest day – well deserved after that 9+ hours epic straight after a big first day.
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