I Can’t Tell You Why

CAMINO FRANCÉS – Day 9: Thursday 17 April 2025 – AZOFRA to BELORADO (38 [+3] kilometres)

Another early start on the trail

I was up early today and, notwithstanding my long walk yesterday, I followed up with another 8.5 hours of walking on the Camino Francés; together these two days have put me a full day ahead of my schedule. The reason for this madness lies in the tales that I have heard of the Easter Sunday festival in Burgos, and my desire to be there to witness the events in three days’ time. With this day in hand I should now make it to Burgos on Saturday afternoon, and the new plan will have the added benefit of two nights (and, more particularly, a Rest Day) in the city. At least that is the current idea, as I rest up in the pleasant town of Belorado tonight.

My progress in blobs – closing in on the city of Burgos (in the bottom left) for the Easter celebrations
My day started at Azofra, with a westerly trek over the red earths of La Rioja . . .
. . . to the town of Santo Domingo de la Calzada, then continuing through a succession of small villages – Grańón . . .
. . . Redecilla del Camino, Castildelgado, Viloria de Rioja, and Villamayor del Rio, before making it to my destination for the day at Belorado

I have had a quick count up of the number of different nationalities I have met to date on the Camino walk – of those that I have had some meaningful contact with (at least to the extent of finding out their country of origin). I think the number stands at twenty, and counting. The most represented country (other than Spain) seems to be the US, with the others from the Americas being from Canada and Chile. As far as Europe is concerned, as well as British and Irish, I have walked and talked with folk from Spain, France, Germany, Italy, the Netherlands, Denmark, Sweden, Slovenia and Romania, whilst representing the rest of the world I have met with trekkers from Australia, South Africa, Japan, Taiwan, Malaysia and Singapore. The Camino is truly international!

We were all cheered by this welcome after the prolonged climb up to Cirueña this morning

Possibly the most asked question on the trail, aside from name, nationality and destination is: ‘Why are you doing the Camino’? I have to confess that my preparations for the trek did not extend to a full analysis of this matter, and initially I was stuck for an answer to this obvious question, mumbling platitudes about ‘challenge’ or ‘experience’. Nine days into the journey now, and I can see that this walk, a pilgrimage, is so very different to my other long treks; I think perhaps that I have been goal-driven previously, concentrating on the destination rather than necessarily taking in the journey for its own sake, and tending to focus on the practical rather than the spiritual side of the walk. There are of course good people walking the Camino for all manner of reasons but, in distilling the consensus, the main purpose seems to be to find both physical space and ‘head space’ away from the rigours and woes of everyday life, be it global politics and suffering or the trials of everyday living. Of course there is a religious, principally (but not exclusively) Christian, motivation for many pilgrims, but the overriding sense seems to be a desire to reconnect with traditional ways, with the world of our forebears, and with this beautiful land. Walking literally keeps the soul grounded; the churches and icons along the way provide tradition and a strong link with the past; whilst the camaraderie of all those enjoying the journey gives a human togetherness that is difficult to find anywhere else on our busy planet. Perhaps I have just answered my own question.

Dawn over Azofra – and the Moon even put in an appearance for my first photo of the day . . .
. . . with a similar spectacle beyond the vineyards
The track out of Azofra . . .
. . . and a Camino shrine to the departed Javi
The modern village of Cirueña, after the day’s first climb
Rolling farmland . . .
. . . eventually brought me into the thriving town of Santo Domingo de la Calzada . . .
. . . on a day of metalwork sculptures
Tranquil scenes crossing the Rio Oja, as the Camino exited the town . . .
. . . and then out on a wide path amongst fields for several miles
Several encounters with the busy N-120 Logroño to Burgos highway was to become a feature of the second half of today’s walk . . .
. . . whilst recently built bridge structures are in place for a new motorway between the two cities
Well away from the roads, new and old, another climb was rewarded with a stroll through the scenic village of Grañòn . . .
. . . where I took lunch in the square . . .
. . . before visiting the Church of San Juan Bautista
From the viewpoint at the top of the village my zig-zag path was laid out before me . . .
. . . up the valley . . .
. . . to a col, where the Camino crosses from the region of La Rioja into the neighbouring Castilla y León
Crossing the proposed carriageways of the motorway-to-be . . .
. . . that is likely to change the lives of those in the adjacent Redecilla del Camino village
Three more villages on this afternoon’s walk : Castildelgado, ‘the quiet one’ . . .
. . . Vitoria de la Rioja, ‘the pretty one’ . . .
. . . and Vilamayor del Rio, ‘the noisy one’
Arriving, after a long day on the path, in Belorado: but no stamp for my ‘passport’ here, as the church was closed, even on Maundy Thursday
The square in Belorado, empty now . . .
. . . but getting ready for the start of the Easter celebrations tonight

The question of why one walks the Camino is entirely personal, but there can be no doubt in the beauty of the culture and landscape in these parts. I am turning in early tonight after two hard days of walking, but feeling energised nonetheless by my day’s exertions.

Walk On! Sculptural figures in Redecilla del Camino, as I made my way through the village this afternoon

The song ‘I Can’t Tell You Why’ that I have used as my Blog heading today is a 1979 recording by Eagles, from their sixth studio album ‘The Long Run’. Written by the group’s Don Henley, Glenn Frey and Timothy B Schmit, the lead vocals on the number are handled by Schmit, who had been recruited to replace founding member Randy Meisner on bass guitar and vocals (primarily the high harmonies), after the latter quit the band in 1977.

The square in Belorado tonight; full bars and restaurants, with the townsfolk and pilgrims all in good spirits at the start of the Easter Weekend, whilst the youngsters played until after dark

3 thoughts on “I Can’t Tell You Why

  1. Burgos here we come – I can’t tell you why is a great track. Loved the picture of the snow capped mountains. Everyone’s looking for something on the Camino trail. I wonder how many find spiritual enlightenment

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  2. great walking on your first week Nick. What a joy to meet such a variety of nationalities with no distractions other than the route ahead- and no rain!!!

    How many miles have you covered to date?

    Enjoying reading the blog!

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