CAMINO FRANCÉS – Day 22: Wednesday 30 April 2025 – VILLADANGOS del PÁRAMO to ASTORGA (29 [+6] kilometres)
I understand that the weather in the UK has been up in the mid-20s centigrade, and it has been much the same in these parts of northern Spain over these last few days. A little hot for all-day walking perhaps, but let us all make the most of the sun while we have it. It looks as though we have a forecast here of windy and showery conditions to come, over the hills, and today there were certainly rain clouds to the west of me, over the parts that my Camino Francés path is due to take me tomorrow and onwards, and I even finished my walk today with a few drops of rain in the air. I have almost got to the point of taking these dry days for granted, and three weeks into my trek I have yet to deploy my waterproofs in anger. We will see what the morrow brings.
My continuing progress across northern Spain . . . . . . and a closer look: my path followed the more northerly of the two routes shown, the dotted red line south-west out of Villadangos . . .. . . proceeding along the roadside senda path as far as the delightful town of Hospital de Orbigo, when at last the Camino leaves the line of the dreaded N-120 on a gravel track through the villages of Villares and Santibáñez . . .. . . before climbing onto the higher ground and eventually up to Alto San Toribio, then descending through San Justo de la Vega to reach the historic pilgrim city of Astorga
It seems remarkable that I am now into my fourth week of walking on the Camino Francés. Yet I think back to that first day’s climb, six hours, from St Jean Pied de Port, and it seems so much longer ago than just three weeks. I guess that an awful lot of water has passed under the bridge, and some hundreds of kilometres beneath my feet, since then. My guide book tells me that, having completed 22 of the suggested 33 ‘Stages’, I have now covered two thirds of the pilgrimage trail – I have not done the specific distance calculations to verify this, but it must be close. The numbers really are not important in the context of the Camino experience, but I guess that it is good to know that my exertions are having some tangible impact on the map!
Back to the roadside paths for the first ten kilometres or so this morning . . .. . . and a chance to study the intricacies of the hydro-engineering of the local irrigation networkA water stop at San Martín del Camino . . .. . . and then I joined forces with Australian father and son Josh and Max . . .. . . as, at last, the way diverged from the highway, and towards the town of Hospital de OrbigoThe ancient bridge offers a scenic entrance from this side of town . . .. . . and ‘I spy a breakfast bar’, up on the opposite balcony!As ever, the storks . . .. . . had an eye on my sustenanceThen we were out into countryside . . .. . . initially across fields . . .. . . to the small settlement of Villares . . .. . . and then up a gentle climb into the hillsLooking back down into Villares . . .. . . and then over the crest towards SantibáñezNot much happening at noon in this village . . .. . . but the wide orange track took as out on a long but gentle rise . . .. . . up through the pine woods and onto the scrub of the páramoCoarse grasses and white jasmine in the moorland . . .. . . then a flatter section, with the distant hills as a backdropThis wonderful snack-shack . . .. . . is stocked with all manner of essentials, and delicacies – all run on a ‘help yourself, pay what you can afford or what it is worth to you’ basisThe top, as far as I can discern of Alto San Toribio, at 925 metres of elevation, is marked by this cross . . .. . . but this more prominent lower viewpoint seems to be the place for photosThen a first view to the west, as far as Astorga and the spires of its grand Cathedral Time for another water stop . . .. . . and farewell, at least for today, to Josh and MaxThen the flat trek into . . .. . . the small city . . .. . . of AstorgaThe bell tower in the Plaza San Francisco . . .. . . then a well-earned drink with Willem, from the Netherlands in the Plaza MayorGaudi’s Palacio Episcopal . . .. . . and across the Plaza Catedral, the splendid 15th Century Cathedral itselfThe twin towers and spires . . .. . . and the intricate stonework of the main entrance
Astorga feels like a missed opportunity to me, and I hope that I get the chance to come back here another day for a better look around. I arrived here mid-afternoon, with nearly 20 miles in my legs, and found the Cathedral and its museum closed. The city is home to a mere 12,000 folk, but it has a multi-faceted history and culture, and enough architectural interest to justify at least a two-day stay. Instead, with the sun disappearing and rain in the air, I have retreated to my digs just outside of the town (which are rather modest to put it mildly), in order to write this missive and to conserve some energy for the hills ahead.
Another pilgrim effigy that had me stopping fearfully in my tracks for a long moment or two
My Blog heading today ‘Soak Up The Sun’ is taken from a song by US country-rock singer-songwriter Sheryl Crow, co-written alongside her long-time collaborator and producer Jeff Trott. It is an up-tempo number from her 2002 album ‘C’mon, C’mon’ recorded at a time when Crow was seeking inspiration after surgery, and when the US itself was still recovering from the horrific events of 9/11. The song has been a staple of her live performances, and I was lucky enough to see her perform the song in a short set at Wembley Stadium in June 2019.
The joys of stadium gigs – searching for a dot in the distance, or watching the event unfold on a screen – but a vibe of summer sun to remember!
One thought on “Soak Up The Sun”
A shame that the museum was closed in Astorga. Hope you get to return someday. Three weeks without waterproofs yet is extraordinary. The hills are beckoning…..
Walking for Fun, Challenge and Charity! 
A shame that the museum was closed in Astorga. Hope you get to return someday. Three weeks without waterproofs yet is extraordinary. The hills are beckoning…..
LikeLike