CAMINO FRANCÉS – Day 24: Friday 2 May 2025 – FONCEBADÓN to PONFERRADA (27 [+4] kilometres)
I am feeling rather euphoric tonight, having had a wonderful day in the hills that included the highest point along the entire Camino Francés route – Alto Altar, at 1,515 metres above sea level (so around 170 metres higher than Ben Nevis). When we all sat down for dinner in our Foncebadón albergue last night there was some trepidation in the air, as we were all heading still further up (our albergue, itself sat at 1,400 metres), and the forecast was for heavy rain showers throughout the morning and into the mid-afternoon. But this morning, and as it was a ‘getting slightly better sort of day’, a couple of others joined me in getting up late, taking our time over breakfast and seeing if there was any improvement outside following the violent storm that had awoken us at 5.00 am. Patience, we are told, is a virtue, and the powers that be obliged with a cessation of the rain around 8.30 am. I stepped out cautiously, without rainproofs, and counted my blessings as the cloud base lifted and the views opened up. Then ensued a fabulous day in the mountains, and a sociable one at that.
My photos should describe our day’s walking much better than I can, but perhaps what they do not convey is the sociability of today’s mountain experience. I guess that all those, like myself, who slept high up at Foncebadón, plus the early risers who joined us on the path having walked up from Rabanal, were in talkative mood following the positive developments in the weather. I had several ‘talk and walk’ discussions, with Kate from London, with Masna from the UAE, with Owen from Dublin, and with Martina from Barcelona, as well as various brief moments with other trekkers from Germany, Italy, the Netherlands, the US, and – my 31st country – Brazil. A few pilgrims have joined the trail at León or Astorga, but most of us here are seasoned Camino veterans from St Jean Pied de Port in France, or from Pamplona. I think that we are all dreading slightly the bus-loads that are likely to be joining us at Sarria, in a few days’ time, for the final week or so of walking into Santiago, as busy trails and difficulty finding accommodation are probable. But, for today, what a wonderful experience we have all had.
Finally, an apology. I said in this piece the other day that León was the last city that I was to pass through before reaching my Camino destination at Santiago de Compostela. Well, here I am in Ponferrada, a city of around 65,000 folk; this place was always on my route but, having walked a few kilometres ahead of myself today, I was not due to stay here, and hence I overlooked its existence! In fact the city makes a logical overnight stopping point, with ample good value accommodation, for those who have the legs to get here after a long day in the hills. As with Astorga however I had too little time for sightseeing, as my brief explorations of the historic centre this evening were cut short by the arrival of the promised rain (and the need to get some dinner). Another town for another day!
The Blog heading ‘Up Where We Belong’ that I have adopted today, is taken from a song of that title penned by US writers Jack Nitzsche, Buffy Sainte-Marie and Will Jennings for the 1982 film ‘An Officer and a Gentleman’. The number was performed as a duet by Joe Cocker and Jennifer Warnes and it hit the top of the US Billboard Hot 100 that July. The lyrics cover the struggles of life, and the obstacles to be overcome – words that have quite some meaning to Camino-trekkers!
Who knows what tomorrow brings
In a world few hearts survive
All I know is the way I feel
When it’s real, I keep it alive
The road is long
There are mountains in our way
But we climb a step every day
Love lift us up where we belong
Where the eagles cry
On a mountain high
Love lift us up where we belong
Far from the world below
Up where the clear winds blow
Some hang on to used to be
Live their lives looking behind
All we have is here and now
All our lives, out there to find
The road is long
There are mountains in our way
But we climb a step every day
Love lift us up where we belong
Where the eagles cry
On a mountain high
Love lift us up where we belong
Far from the world we know
Where the clear winds blow
Time goes by
No time to cry
Life’s you and I
Alive today
Love lift us up where we belong
Where the eagles cry
On a mountain high
Love lift us up where we belong
Far from the world we know
Where the clear winds blow
Love lift us up where we belong
Where the eagles cry
On a mountain high
Love lift us up where we belong
Walking for Fun, Challenge and Charity! 
Alto Altar summiteer and a rainbow 🌈 at the end of the day. Euphoria in the 🏔️ – made me think of my cousins new home in Maine USA. Euphoria Heights!
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What an adventure you are having Nick and huge sense of achievement when you look at the map and see your progress. There is something special about completing a trail such as this in one go rather than breaking down into sections to be completed over two or three years.
Tim and I are considering planning a Camino next year. We’ve also been inspired by the recent BBC Pilgrimage programme in the Austrian/Swiss Alps.
Tomorrow we are doing a 6 miles circular at circular walk around Wimpole Farm (NT) ahead of leading the walk for M2M a charity we are involved with. They support people who have suffered trauma either mentally or physically.
Thanks for your fascinating blogs at the end of each day.
Carol and Tim
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Nick. Ian’s cousins wife from the states, Jean Johnston is one of the hoards, with two friends joining at León I think on May 2nd. Now that would be a coincidence if you met them.
you are looking well and happy. Glad shoulders are better.
love Aileen
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