CAMINO FRANCÉS – Day 25: Saturday 3 May 2025 – PONFERRADA to VILLAFRANCA del BIERZO (24 [+4] kilometres)
A colourful rock garden in Pieros village
The Bierzo region of Spain sits in the north-west corner of the province of Castilla and León, and comprises Ponferrada and the upper reaches of the Rio Sil basin, including Villafranca where I am resting at the moment after my day’s walk. The area has its own micro-climate and is renowned for its hospitable weather, the produce from its rich soils, and above all the local wines. This section of the Camino Francés runs through the heart of the Bierzo, and whilst the path lacks the gradients of yesterday (and indeed tomorrow) up in the hills, there is plenty of small-scale interest in the landscape, both of human and natural origin, as well as the backdrop of the mountain scenery beyond.
Not wishing to tempt fate, I have taken the bold decision to show the western half of my route map, with my destination of Santiago de Compostela highlighted by the pink dot towards the left hand sideIn more detail, I left Ponferrada this morning, walking westwards through the villages of Compostilla, Columbrianos, Fuentes Nuevas and Camponaraya . . .. . . before a lunch stop in Cacabelos, through Pieros, and then over the rolling fields and vineyards of Valtuille to my destination of Villafranca del Bierzo
The weather held again today, with the forecast rain waiting until the late afternoon and evening before drenching Villafranca. On the predominantly flat ground the day’s slightly shorter walk became quite a sociable ramble, with many chance meetings along the way, and numerous stops for breakfast, coffee, lunch and a local festival. Here is my day in pictures.
First thing this morning, the street market in Ponferrada . . .. . . is this a cheese shop?Some spectacular cloud-forms over Ponferrada, as we said our goodbyes to the city . . .. . . and headed out through the vineyardsAn unusual welcome to CompostillaMy walking companion for the first few kilometres (and a coffee), Peggy from Atlanta, Georgia, and her friend JohnMy daily stork fix (I love these fellas) . . .. . . and time to flee the nestContinuing on the flat and quiet lane . . .. . . with some fine views . . .. . . and some spectacular skiesThe church in Fuentes Nuevas, where we entered for another ‘Pilgrim’s Stamp’ . . .. . . and, across the street, some renovation neededIn the town of Cacabelos – presumably they have a local hero to celebrate . . .. . . then crossing the Rio CúaThen, for the rest of the day, the path followed wide and undulating farm tracks through the Bierzo vineyards . . .. . . with the smoky mountains beyondStill more vineyards . . .. . . as I approached Valtuille . . .. . . and stumbled upon the village’s May Day festivitiesNine pipers piping . . .. . . and a six-piece rhythm sectionI was welcomed with the offer of a drink and a plate of olives, to enjoy whilst watching the celebrationsThen back on the path for the final kilometres . . .. . . over the hills . . .. . . and through more vineyards . . .. . . to Villafranca – where the lively plaza puts on its own welcome for the happy hikers
Tonight, despite the rain, a number of us met up, more by chance than by design, for the ‘Pilgrim’s Menu’ in the Casino restaurant in Villafranca’s Plaza Mayor. The evening became another international gathering – of Austria, the Netherlands, Hungary, Sweden, France, Canada, and myself: there are a few other Brits to be found out here, but they seem few and far between, so it would appear that we are keeping the secret of the Camino quite close.
Looking out, early evening, from my digs . . .. . . in the 17th Century Iglesia San NicolasBut needless to say, we found a bar where the beer was flowing . . .. . . and after dinner I shared a drink with Joseph – our paths have kept crossing these last few days
And finally today: I have had a couple of messages asking about the flowers in some of my photos over the last two or three days of my Camino trek, since I have been in the hills. It has been difficult choosing the pictures to post, but I did take quite a few shots of the mountain flowers, so here are a selection, starting with those from the higher ground – please do correct me if I have mis-named or mis-identified any of these plants.
Purple and yellow lined my upland path over the hills yesterdayBushes of purple heather . . .. . . and white jasmineThese low bushes, or cushions, seem to be some sort of trefoil Flowering rosemary . . .. . . and bushes of broomPurple orchids . . .. . . and (lower down in the sheltered valley above Molinaseca) these rock rosesToday, on the flatter ground, a single poppy amongst the wild oats . . .. . . the new leaves of a silver wattle or mimosa . . .. . . and some healthy-looking vines
My Blog heading today, ‘Flowers’ is inspired by US singer-songwriter Miley Cyrus’ mega-hit single from 2023, that appeared on her eighth studio album ‘Endless Summer Vacation’. The song had phenomenal commercial success, hitting the top spot on the US Billboard Hot 100 for eight weeks and becoming the best-selling single globally for 2023, whilst being streamed nearly three billion times.
Back to the May Day festivities at Valtuille, where the music encouraged some traditional Galician dances
Walking for Fun, Challenge and Charity! 
Fabulous cloud formations, clear skies, vineyards & flowers. A heady mix!
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