The In Crowd

Posted bynickletjogPosted inDiary

CAMINO FRANCÉS – Day 28: Tuesday 6 May 2025 – SARRIA to PORTOMARÍN (23 [+3] kilometres)

The number of walkers on the trail has increased since Sarria – by about four or five-fold in my estimation

I am not sure what the collective noun for trekkers is, nor for pilgrims come to that, but I will go with a ‘procession’. Today was the day when the masses arrived on the Camino, as Sarria is the most popular starting point for many walkers on a one-week schedule: by joining here they get to enjoy one of the most scenic parts of the route, and also cover the requisite 100 kilometres that qualifies for the pilgrimage certification on arrival in Santiago. It would be easy to become frustrated with the crowd-scene, but my guidebook (by John Brierley) cautions accordingly, with the sage words; ‘A reminder for ‘seasoned’ pilgrims who commenced in St Jean Pied de Port or further back . . . beware of signs of irritation at the ‘intrusion’ of new pilgrims on ‘your’ Camino – remember that many of the new arrivals may be nervous starting out, and the last thing that they need is aloofness built on a false sense of superiority . . . a loving pilgrim welcomes all they meet along the path with an open mind and an open heart, without judgement.’ So I am feeling good about the masses.

All being well, just four walking days to go now before I reach Santiago de
Compostela
I started out this morning from Sarria, on the right hand side of the map, then climbed onto the higher ground through a series of villages and hamlets . . .
. . . to the day’s high point of Alto Momientos, before descending to Portomarín

In fairness, the greater number of pilgrims has added a new dynamic to the walk – the feeling of a festival, or a party – and there was certainly a lot of banter and laughter, with walkers of all ages and nationalities interacting in the best of spirits. Add in the multitude of cafés, restaurants, small shops and ‘street’ vendors, plus some musical interludes (see below), and all the ingredients for a fun day in the hills fell nicely into place: without perhaps the solitude of many parts of the Camino, a palpable sense of common purpose and friendship prevailed. Here are my pictures of the day.

Clear blue skies over Sarria this morning
A steep climb to start the walk, as we said our goodbyes to the town
Bridging one of a number of small streams that crossed the path
Quite a tree – and quite impossible today to get a photo along the path without several walkers in the shot!
A steep climb up through the woods . . .
. . . then out of the trees and onto farmland . . .
. . . and a far-off view of the Autopista
After the initial climb, much of today’s walk was on an undulating gravel path . . .
. . . with views to each side
This section of the Camino has many drinking water fountains . . .
. . . and, as here in Mirralos, there are plenty of potential refreshment stops . . .
. . . whilst each village has its own chapel with family tombs outside
An easy section of walking on a flat path . . .
. . . brought us to our high point of today, Alto Momientos at 660 metres – more of a rise in the path than a summit
Let sleeping dogs lie
An interesting mural at the entrance to Mercadoiro . . .
. . . where I found a genteel place for lunch (with prices to match – at levels unseen hitherto on the Camino)
Starting our descent . . .
. . . and a first distant view of our destination for the day, Portomarín
Tending the flock . . .
. . . in Vilachá village
The final road section . . .
. . . down to the reservoir . . .
. . . and Portomarín’s Liberty Bell
A view from the bridge over the Rio Miño and the reservoir . . .
. . . then an unusual pedestrian entrance to a town – a 60-step stairway from the centre of a roundabout
My arrival in Portomarín – four weeks now completed on the trail
The Iglesia de San Juan . . .
. . . proved to be a fine place to find calm and to cool off after my day’s walk . . .
. . . before checking into my pensión – Rachel will be pleased to know that I am in the ‘Happy Room’, rather than the ‘Love Room’!

Portomarin is a pleasant place to rest up after a fine day of walking. Some parts of the town are newer, but they surround a lively central square that has a choice of several restaurants, and is presided over by a Romanesque fortress church, the Iglesia de San Juan. The church has quite a history, as it was rebuilt after being moved from its original site, that now sits under the waters of the Rio Miño Reservoir below the town. Chilling out here this afternoon I feel almost as though I am on holiday!

The view from my room at the Pensión Boavista . . .
. . . and a reunion dinner with Niall – Camino buddies for almost a month now!

‘The In Crowd’ that I have chosen as today’s Blog heading follows a song of that title written by US songwriter Billy Page in 1964, and first recorded that year by US soul singer Dobie Gray. The single reached No 13 on the US Billboard Hot 100 in early 1965, and also made it to No 25 on the UK charts. A number of artists have covered the song, including The Mamas & The Papas in 1966, whilst the Bryan Ferry version made the UK Top 20 in 1974.

A roadside rendition of Galician music on the trail today, near Mercadoiro, had some trekkers clapping and dancing along

One thought on “The In Crowd”

  1. Another fine day with clear blue skies☀️. I wonder if the large town name signs are all over Spain or if they have been built for the benefit of pilgrims in the Camino? Love the observations on route – the sheepdog resting on the wall today. Into the fifth and final week with Bryan Ferry and Roxy Music, the only version of that song I’m young enough to remember.

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