Let It Be

CAMINO FRANCÉS – Day 29: Wednesday 7 May 2025 – PORTOMARÍN to PALAS DE REI (25 [+4] kilometres)

I would argue, and others might agree, that there is nothing like music for triggering memories, and for taking us back and reminding us of a person, a time, or a place. Along this Camino Francés I have been starved of music, as generally I tend to avoid using earphones whilst walking – and most certainly on a pilgrimage such as this, when some of the key attractions lie in the natural environment, in the conversations with others and, above all, in the moment. So my only exposure to music during the day over this last month has been whilst sitting at, or passing, the cafés, bars and restaurants along the path. The typical playlist of these establishments is fairly random, largely rock and pop numbers from across the decades, but there is a slight tendency for songs with some sort of religious connection; hence I have heard regularly Madonna’s ‘Like A Prayer’ (my Blog heading on Day 3), Bon Jovi’s ‘Livin’ On A Prayer’, and (somewhat oddly) REM’s ‘Losing My Religion’ – I have heard the latter four times now, the first time on Day 1 in the bar at Roncesvalles, and I am uncertain as to whether this is coincidental, or maybe played as an attempt at ironic humour, or perhaps even broadcast to make some sort of counter-statement to passing pilgrims. I guess that the answer to that question is likely to remain unknown – but to stay on point, the song that has had the most impact on me, and that will forever take me back to the Camino, is The Beatles’ ‘Let It Be’. I think the song could have been written for pilgrims, as it certainly hits a sweet spot on the Camino.

So, back to the walking. Today started cool and misty above the reservoir in Portomarín, but the early climb from the town took us quickly up above the cloud, that was soon to disperse anyway. A pleasant sunny day ensued, not too hot, and quite pleasant for walking. The path itself passed through pinewoods and briefly across open ground at Castromaior, but mostly amongst undulating pasture and farmland. The day hit its high point at the Sierra Ligonde, that sits at 720 vertical metres, and the route offered some pleasant views – when the gaps between the trees allowed. Here is the story of how I got on today.

Many thanks once again to everyone for their support and interest in reading this Blog. Just to answer a few questions raised in the comments by Richard and Steve: firstly, regarding stamps in my ‘Pilgrim’s Passport’, the minimum requirement is said to be two stamps per day for at least 100 kilometres of hiking. I have been collecting passport stamps at the rate of about three per day since the start of my walk, but the potential for more stamps has increased greatly since Sarria, with every café, bar, restaurant, hostel, shop and church offering a stamp – so I am up to about a hundred now, having filled two ‘passports’ and being well into my third. In terms of the ‘Pilgrim’s Menu’ in restaurants (usually priced at €14 to €16 for three courses, including wine), I have never been asked to prove myself as a pilgrim before ordering, but it is pretty obvious from my limited wardrobe that I am genuine. Having said that, I would guess that anyone could access the offer, as the folk here are more relaxed than at home and really do not stress themselves with petty rules. And finally the town signs – I have seen these elsewhere in Spain, so suspect that they are not exclusive to the pilgrimage routes – the Spanish, at least across the north of the country, have a tradition of metalwork, so statues and metal artworks are commonplace along the path, as I imagine they are in other towns and cities. My next question is – where am I going to eat tonight?

My Blog heading today, ‘Let It Be’ needs little introduction. It is of course a Paul McCartney number, credited to ‘Lennon-McCartney’, that was recorded in early 1969 but not released until April 1970, after the band’s break-up, as the title track from The Beatles’ twelfth and final studio album. There are several stories around the origin of the lyrics, although McCartney is on record as saying that it was written after he had a dream about his mother, Mary Patricia McCartney (who had died when he was 14 years old): in his own words ‘It was great to visit with her again. I felt very blessed to have that dream. So that got me writing ‘Let It Be’. And in a later interview McCartney said that in the dream his mother had told him, ‘It will be all right, just let it be^’. When questioned on the obvious allusions to the Virgin Mary, McCartney has typically replied that listeners can interpret the song however they like. I am sure that you are familiar with the words, but here goes:

When I find myself in times of trouble, Mother Mary comes to me
Speaking words of wisdom, let it be
And in my hour of darkness she is standing right in front of me
Speaking words of wisdom, let it be

Let it be, let it be, let it be, let it be
Whisper words of wisdom, let it be

And when the broken hearted people living in the world agree
There will be an answer, let it be
For though they may be parted, there is still a chance that they will see
There will be an answer, let it be

Let it be, let it be, let it be, let it be
There will be an answer, let it be

Let it be, let it be, let it be, let it be
Whisper words of wisdom, let it be

Let it be, let it be, let it be, let it be
Whisper words of wisdom, let it be, be

And when the night is cloudy there is still a light that shines on me
Shine until tomorrow, let it be
I wake up to the sound of music, Mother Mary comes to me
Speaking words of wisdom, let it be

And let it be, let it be, let it be, let it be
Whisper words of wisdom, let it be

And let it be, let it be, let it be, let it be
Whisper words of wisdom, let it be