THE THAMES PATH – DAY 5: Thursday 11 September 2025 – NORTHMOOR LOCK to OXFORD (11.8 miles)
Our first view of the ‘Dreaming Spires’ across the open grazing lands of Port Meadow to the east of the Thames, as we approached the City of Oxford
Picking up from where we left off three weeks ago, today Rachel and I undertook a day-trip, back to the small village of Appleton just a few miles to the south-west of Oxford, to resume our Thames Path walk. We were led by a free day in the diary, and perhaps misled (slightly) by a weather forecast for ‘possible light rain showers’, that in the event manifested as four prolonged heavy downpours that rather challenged the performance of our waterproofs. Nonetheless, we enjoyed a super day of varied rural landscapes, enhanced by ever-changing atmospherics and light.
Parking up in Appleton village, we re-traced our steps of three weeks ago to Northmoor Lock on the Thames Path, before following the river in a huge loop around the ‘highlands’ of Wytham Hill and eventually into central Oxford
Today marked, possibly, the last section of ‘remote Thames’. Between Northmoor Lock and the Thames Bridge that carries the busy A34 over the river, we met but one other walker and a single cyclist on the path, as we trekked over water meadows and along tree-lined towpaths for eight miles or so; the only other exception to our solitude being a 20-minute coffee stop with the locals at the Ferryman Inn at Bablock Hythe, where we sheltered from the first of the cloudbursts. Closer to Oxford, and with a brightening of the weather, we were joined by some afternoon strollers and dog-walkers, as well as by a few boaters and some rowing crews on the water, before joining the throngs in the city centre.
Thatched cottages in Appleton village, where we started out . . .. . . before making our way back to the Thames Path at Northmoor LockA backward glance at the lock and weir . . .. . . and then forwards through the pasturesStorm-clouds gathering now . . .. . . but we made it to shelter just in time (on this occasion), to the Ferryman Inn at Bablock Hythe, where the winch for the former cable ferry still remains in place . . .. . . and this photo in the Inn, from the early 1930s, shows the wide-beamed ferry-punt in use: the service was discontinued for cars in 1959, closing this ancient Thames crossing point that had survived since the 13th CenturyFrom Bablock Hythe the path leaves the river for a couple of miles, across farmland . . .. . . and a sunny interval brought out colours in the autumnal hedgerows – of sloes . . .. . . rose hips . . .. . . and some frustratingly out-of-reach high-hanging blackberriesOur first view of Wytham Hill, that stands at 164 metres of elevation (somewhat over 100 metres higher than the surrounding countryside), around which, for several miles, the Thames loops to the northPinkhill Lock, where a seat (briefly in the sun) made for an excellent lunch-stopFlood level recorders by the lockThe marina near Farmoor . . .. . . is also home to some rusting bargesSwinford Toll Bridge (one of two remaining toll bridges over the Thames), was built in the 1760s; we sheltered beneath the arches, free of charge . . .. . . before I was caught in action!The deluge passed, and we had blue skies awhile on the northern loop of the long meander, around to the A34 crossing just after King’s Weir: Rachel spotted three kingfishers along this stretch (all unfortunately lost on me)A stricken tree . . .. . . and a sunken bargeThe ruins of Godstow Abbey date in part from the 12th CenturyA rowing meet, as the rain clouds gathered once more . . .. . . so time to seek sanctuary at The Perch in Binsey village, for a beer or a tea (as the case may be), before our final mile into OxfordA first close-up glimpse of the city . . .. . . then the footbridge over to Osney Island . . .. . . where we were forced off-track for the final yards of our day’s walkThe view south from Osney Bridge, in the centre of Oxford, from where we will pick up our trek again on another day
So here in Oxford we must leave our Thames Path adventure once more, just for a while. I hope that we can rejoin the trail again before too long, and I will be sure to report back in this Blog with our further exertions, as we head into the autumn.
What with getting to the Thames Path from Appleton, and a couple of diversions en route and in Oxford, we covered just over 14 miles today in total; so a curry (to replace all of those precious lost calories) was certainly in order on our journey home this evening!
My Blog heading today, ‘Oxford Town’, is taken from the title of a 1962 song written and performed by Bob Dylan, from his second album ‘The Freewheelin’ Bob Dylan’ that was released in May 1963. The number was written not for ‘our’ Oxford, but for the city of the same name in Mississippi, following an open invitation in Broadside magazine for songwriters’ offerings on the ‘Ole Miss’ riot that was triggered by the enrolment of a black student, James Meredith, in the University of Mississippi in the autumn of 1962.
One thought on “Oxford Town”
AS Usual brilliant photography from an area of the thames near Oxford i really wouldn’t have
recognised. Thanks for sharing the splendid photos and expanding knowledge of special places on your walks! I am full of admiration for you both!
Keep sending photos and comments which I’m sure make us all smile
Walking for Fun, Challenge and Charity! 
AS Usual brilliant photography from an area of the thames near Oxford i really wouldn’t have
recognised. Thanks for sharing the splendid photos and expanding knowledge of special places on your walks! I am full of admiration for you both!
Keep sending photos and comments which I’m sure make us all smile
Liz beloe
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