This Part Two of our short Slovenian adventure continues with the walks that Rachel and I took in the Julian Alps in the country’s north-west last month. Our trip was centred on the lakeside town of Bled and on the village of Bohinj Bistrica where we stayed, both set on the edge of Triglav National Park amongst the fabulous autumn colours of the mixed woodlands that populate the lower slopes of the mountains.
This topographical map of Slovenia shows the highlands of the Julian Alps in the north-west of the country . . .. . . and this more detailed plan of Triglav National Park depicts the location of Lake Bled to the east, and Lake Bohinj just within its south-east boundary
Herewith my photo-diary for the second half of our trip, that includes these final three days of glorious walking in the hills and valleys.
The steep-sided limestone of the Vintgar Gorge requires hard hats and a degree of cautionSome sunlight penetrates the upper reaches . . .. . . and then a series of bridges . . .. . . and cantilevered walkways . . .. . . as we entered the depths of the narrow canyonLight at the end of the gorge . . .. . . before we emerged . . .. . . to the Vintgar Falls . . .. . . at the exit of the GorgeA climb back up through woodlands brought us to the quaint Church of St Catherine . . .. . . and the onto the scenic Kings PathFrom here we followed the contours for some panoramic views . . .. . . extending north-westwards as far as Mount Triglav, Slovenia’s highest peak (at 2,864 metres of elevation)Next day, we returned to Bled . . .. . . for the steep climb up from the lake and through the woods to Osojnica peak, for some extensive vistas to the east . . .. . . and down onto Otok Island beneath usSteady on the way down!Then we returned once more along the lakeside path . . .. . . for tea and cake, whilst watching the pletna boats on the waterOur final day of country walking took us from our base in the village of Bohinj Bistrica . . .. . . up the valley of the Sava Bohinjka . . .. . . first to the hamlet of Brod . . .. . . and then to the footbridge at Kamnje villageAutumn colours on the riverbanks . . .. . . then a well-made path to the hillsA curious onlooker . . .. . . and an interesting scout hut . . .. . . before a lunch-stop on the shores of Lake BohinjThe return walk followed a trail through farmland and along the undulating slopes on the southern side of the valleyDecorative maize . . .. . . and a case of extreme woodpile envyThe track back to Bohinj Bistrica . . .. . . for our last night in the Hotel Tripic
We were surprised to find, at the end of seven days of walking, that we had covered well over a hundred kilometres (around seventy miles) on foot, as it is fair to say that we took our time along the paths as I continue to recover from the effects of post-covid breathlessness. There is no doubting the positive effects of good company, exercise, cool clean air, and the (at least partial) avoidance of technology – at any time – and certainly we departed the Alps reinvigorated ahead of the final two days of our trip, in the historic Slovenian capital of Ljubljana.
Arriving in Ljubljana, and the start of our walking tour of the historic city centreOne of the four guardians that stand on the ‘Dragon Bridge’ over the Ljubljanica riverLovers’ locks on the railings . . .. . . and a clear view along the waterThe market square . . .. . . and Town SquareLjubljana Castle stands on an outcrop on the inside of a meander on the Ljubjanica river . . .. . . and after a short, but steep, climb . . .. . . we scaled the battlements . . .. . . for some super views across the city rooftopsNext stop, the ‘House of Illusions’ . . .. . . for a rest on a bed of nails . . .. . . and some amusing reflectionsStreet sculpture . . .. . . and a stroll through the Tivoli GardensIn Prešeren Square we arranged to meet Andreja, a Slovenian friend from my Camino walk early in the year, and her husband Darko . . .. . . and together we followed the yellow arrows . . .. . . and the clam-shell signs . . .. . . all the way to Church of St James in the Old Town, at the hub of Slovenia’s own Camino pilgrimage routesAnd a flashback to our meeting, back in April of this year, with fellow trekkers Akemi and Shelley, on the Camino Francés in northern Spain
It was such a pleasure to meet up with Andreja and Darko, and to hear just a little of everyday life in their country – as well as catching up on anecdotes of our Camino walk last spring and of the characters that we met along the way. I am sure that Rachel and I will return to this corner of the continent again, perhaps to enjoy Slovenia’s springtime meadows on our next visit. But for now the experience and the memories of our Alpine autumn will sustain us through the darker evenings at home. I hope to be reporting back soon with some further progress on the Thames Path walk that Rachel and I have held in abeyance for the last few weeks, amidst holidays and family commitments.
Drinks with Darko and Andreja on our night out in Ljubljana
‘Autumn Almanac’ is a Ray Davies song by London-based rock band The Kinks, and it really is about time that I adopted one of the group’s numbers as a Blog heading – albeit via a song that paints a quintessential picture of the fall in England rather than in Slovenia! Recorded in September 1967 and released a month later, the single reached No 3 on the UK charts, and to me it suits the subject and mood of our October ramblings amongst the colours of the Julian Alps.
Golden memories – I always say this, but I am sure we will return to Slovenia
Walking for Fun, Challenge and Charity! 