Surprise View

LETJOG PEAK No 44: Cold Overton Park, Rutland (197 metres)

Walk Date: Tuesday 22 August 2023

A picture of rural England: looking down on Oakham, county town of Rutland

Rutland, at a mere 147 square miles, is the smallest of the provincial English shires and has just 40,000 inhabitants, but whilst this most modest of counties may lack something as far as rankings are concerned it certainly makes up for in terms of identity, aesthetics and historical interest. Metropolitan counties aside, my visit to Oakham is the first occasion on my LETJOG Peaks journey where I have been able to walk directly from the county town up to the shire peak, and this certainly adds some sense of unity and wholeness to the day’s exertions. And what an eye-opening walk this circuit proved to be, with the gentle countryside providing new interest at every turn of the path.

After exploring the town centre, this route departs Oakham initially north-westwards through Barleythorpe following an anticlockwise course, before climbing to the County Top at Cold Overton Park: the circular route then proceeds over fields, through woodland, and via the pleasant villages of Braunston-in-Rutland, Brooke and Egleton ahead of its return to the town centre start-point

It has been a couple of decades since I have visited Oakham, and so I arrived this morning early, with some time in hand to explore the centre and to gain a little understanding of the history and tradition of this pleasing town. I was joined once more, first over a coffee and then on our twelve-mile ramble through the fields, woodlands and villages of rural Rutland, by close friends Rick and Eleanor. You may have seen the three of us together in some of my earlier Blogs, and on the trail today we certainly enjoyed the warm sunshine and some light-hearted banter as we meandered our way through the gentle Rutland countryside.

This picture was taken from the car park on Burley Street, which is just outside the walls of Oakham Castle
The castle was built originally in the decade from 1180, and this model within the earthwork compound shows the town’s fortress as it might have looked in 1550
The Great Hall survives, and the building hosts a collection of around 230 horseshoes: a centuries-old tradition has it that peers of the realm must forfeit a horseshoe to Oakham’s Lord of the Manor upon their first visit to the town, and the oldest shoe is said to have been presented by Edward IV in 1470
All Saints Church in the centre of Oakham is the town’s most conspicuous landmark, visible from the fields across the county . . .
. . . whilst the nearby Market Cross has been used as a meeting place since the 16th Century . . .
. . . and houses a Grade 1 listed set of stocks
Our route out of the town took us past many ‘Oakham in Bloom’ displays . . .
. . . and amongst some paddocks of well-groomed horses
Before long our climb brought us to the trig point in a field in Cold Overton Park a mile or so south-west of Barleythorpe, that marks the top of Rutland at 197 metres of elevation
The shire peak has a prominence of just eleven metres, but it does enjoy views to the east extending over Rutland Water . . .
. . . and over the Vale of Catmose
A diversion was required here . . .
. . . in order to avoid this inquisitive herd of heifers
An ironstone and thatch cottage in the village of Braunston-in-Rutland . . .
. . . and the village’s 12th Century All Saints Church . . .
. . . where bat boxes for pipistrelles have been installed (and seem to be enjoyed also by a local pigeon)
Harvest time at Wood Lane Farm . . .
. . . and the earthworks and dovecote at Brooke Priory, that was founded in the 12th Century by an Augustinian order of monks
This small hill, north and to our left as we crossed the fields towards Egleton village, is quite striking, but on the map it appears to have no name
Rutland Water was created in 1976, and is the largest reservoir in England by surface area; on its western shores at Egleton the Rutland Water Nature Reserve comprises wetlands and lagoons that are home to ospreys and many water birds
Leaving Egleton, a backward glance at the church . . .
. . . and to our right, northwards, up to Burley House
Back in Oakham, enjoying some refreshment at the Grainstore Craft Brewery after a marvellous day’s walk

Perhaps my heading today ‘Surprise View’ is pushing the point a little; Rutland is perhaps not spectacular from a topographical perspective, but Oakham, the villages and the countryside itself all convey a unique identity and a subtle splendour that have been quite a revelation to me. This smallest of shires is yet another area where I have done very little walking previously, and being well within a couple of hours’ drive from home this is something of an omission on my part; the rural county, with its buildings of ironstone, brickwork and thatch, and it’s pastures and fields of green and gold is easy on the eye at this time of year, and full of interest, particularly in and around the affluent historic villages through which we passed. I intend to return soon! My thanks, as ever to Rick and Eleanor for joining me again, for their lively conversation, and for feeding and accommodating me at their home in neighbouring Northamptonshire this evening – great to see you again on this latest, and memorable, stage of my LETJOG Peaks journey!

Near Egleton, a black and white banded snail rests on a nettle leaf

Given such a small headcount, my research into ‘Rutland music artists’ didn’t achieve a great many ‘hits’, but one local singer-songwriter, Sam Carter did ring a bell, and it is his song title ‘Surprise View’ that I have borrowed for my Blog heading today. Carter hails from Rutland, and he achieved his breakthrough in 2010 when he was announced as ‘Best Newcomer’ at the Radio 2 Folk Awards, with the station’s Mike Harding hailing him as ‘one of the most gifted acoustic guitarists of his generation’. The artist’s self-composition ‘Surprise View’ is a moving song (unique, in my experience, for including ‘walking boots’ in the lyrics); it appears on his 2020 album ‘Home Waters’ that has been praised for evoking ‘rich emotional landscapes’, whilst Carter himself describes the work as ‘a search for a sense of belonging and stability in unfamiliar territory’.

The horseshoe is the emblem of Rutland: whilst many elsewhere tend to depict the symbol as an upright ‘U’ in order that their ‘luck does not run out’, ‘Raddlemen’ believe traditionally that the upturned horseshoe prevents the devil from loitering within!

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