Lakeland slate: it always looks better on the occasions when it’s dry, and the more so here with a ray of sunshine upon it!
Winter walking in the UK hills always constitutes some element of risk with the weather, but so far, two days into this five-day foray to the Lake District, I have certainly got lucky. I took an early train from Berkhamsted yesterday morning that got me into Windermere before 10.00 am, my early awakening being rewarded by the sunniest of arrivals and with breakfast overlooking the water.
A wise old owl!
I have ventured up to this wonderful part of England for two days of solo walking before meeting up with a number of friends from our walking group in Berkhamsted. Our expedition is to be based in Elterwater, just west of Ambleside in the heart of the Lakes, where we have banded together to book (exclusive!) ‘out of season’ use of the Elterwater Hostel, for some winter walking in the hills. I am pleased to say that we have all met up successfully this evening, and whilst we ponder our proposed walks for the days ahead I thought I would share some photos of my first two fabulous Lakeland walks.
From Windermere rail station my path yesterday (in the dark blue line) took me northward from the town to join the route of the annual ‘Lakeland 100’ (mile) circuit: I followed this path through the town of Ambleside at the head of the lake and then westward to Loughrigg Tarn, where I detoured to my overnight destination at the Skelwith Bridge HotelA trip worth getting up early for: my first train yesterday morning took me down to Watford Junction to pick up the West Coast Mainline connection to Oxenholme Lake District, and from there onwards to WindermereJust four hours later – on the gentle path northward out of Windermere . . .. . . that led me shortly into open country for my first Lakeland views and some tantalising glimpses of the waterThen it was back into the woods: mossy walls and a squelchy pathIs that an Easter Islander gazing down upon me?Snowdrops by the wayside – a reminder that winter is still upon usMy path then picked up the ‘Lakeland 100’ route as it headed up . . .. . . over the fields . . .. . . and onto the moors, with some wonderful southerly views down Lake WindermereThe long and winding road . . .. . . that leads down . . .. . . towards the head of the Lake, at AmblesideAnother view of enigmatic WindermereGoodness only knows how one goes about getting planning consent for a mega garden centre in the very heart of a National Park: quite extraordinary!Approaching Ambleside town centre . . .. . . where I enjoyed a lunchtime pasty by the old Bridge HouseIn the town’s Rothay Park some sculpture . . .. . . and a roche moutonnée amongst the picnic tablesCrossing the River Rothay, on the way out of Ambleside . . .. . . and following directions . . .. . . back up onto the moorlandSome more great views down over the Lake . . .. . . and ahead to Coniston Old Man, his snow-capped head in the clouds todayDescending once more, for a circuit of Loughrigg Tarn, seen here with two buttresses of the Langdale Pikes beyondAnother view as I circumnavigated Loughrigg TarnIt must be a combination of the dramatic landscape and the moody weather attracted to these hills that gives the Lake District such a distinctive ambience: I hope this picture, as I descended to Skelwith Bridge, captures something of the unique light in these partsBeside the River Brathay sits the Skelwith Bridge Hotel, my overnight refuge
And so concluded a wonderful day: twelve miles of Lakeland trekking, with clear views and no rain! The benign weather is set to continue for a couple more days, with some more great walking in prospect – only time will tell if the forecasts are accurate.
And so it was – early morning today, Sunday: the view from my room at the dawn of another wonderful day
My second solo day, and with the weather so settled a high walk it just had to be! Set here in the heart of the Lake District there is no need to travel for good walks, as there is a stunning choice of climbs on the doorstep. I settled upon an ambitious 16-mile trek that took me up the valley, before a stiff climb to Stickle Tarn and an onward ascent to the top of High Raise. I was wise on this occasion to go for the full English breakfast offered at the Skelwith Bridge Hotel, as the walk was to call upon all my reserves of energy. What rewards though: how many winter days in these parts offer such fine light and visibility?
Today’s walk followed the flat and well-made paths alongside the Great Langdale Beck towards the valley head, turning northwards and upwards at Dungeon Ghyll to reach Stickle Tarn, before climbing once more to the plateau leading to the top of High Raise: the return retraced the outbound route, but with a diversion along Blea Rigg for some more far-reaching viewsLeaving the Skelwith Bridge Hotel, well-rested and generously-breakfasted!
My destination today was High Raise, a flat-topped peak of 762 metres above sea level. Part of the mount’s attraction lies in its central location within the Lake District, affording views of all of the uppermost peaks of the region – only on a clear day of course.
High Raise – the centre point of the Lake District
Certainly the day lived up to all expectations: here is the story of how it unfolded.
Ferns and mosses on my way out of Skelwith Bridge . . .. . . on a delightful path alongside the river . . .. . . soon reaching Skelwith Force . . .. . . the crashing waters adding to the morning mistA fine morning indeed, for walkers and photographers alike!Looking over the small lake if Elter WaterA short stretch of path through the woods . . .. . . led me across the fields and through the gateway to the fellsA dusting of snow on the topsFrom Dungeon Ghyll the climb started in earnest . . .. . . involving some scrambling, and the crossing of the cascading beck . . .. . . to reach, eventually, Stickle TarnClimbing again . . .. . . seemingly ever-upward . . .. . . to the icy plateau on the topMade it – to the top of High Raise, 762 metres above sea level, in the heart of the Lakeland fells, with Scafell Pike as a backdrop . . .. . . and the Helvellyn Range before meStarting down, and out of the icy wind – a good spot to contemplate good fortune, whilst enjoying a picnic lunch!Views aplenty throughout my afternoon ramble across Blea Rigg, with not another soul around: here a glimpse of Easdale Tarn to the north . . .. . . before a long, and steep, descent back into the valley Late afternoon shadowsFeeding time, I think!
Such a fine day in the fells. Now it is time to join my walking friends for dinner, camaraderie and, I’m sure, some more good walking ahead! I shall report back in a few days on our experiences.
A warm welcome awaits
I haven’t featured a lot of heavy metal music titles in my Blog headings to date, but ‘Run To The Hills’ seems an appropriate headline for a short walking break in the Lake District. The heading is borrowed from a song by Iron Maiden off ‘The Number Of The Beast’, the band’s third studio album recorded in 1982. Iron Maiden was formed in Leyton, East London on Christmas Day 1975 by bassist Steve Harris, and the group still performs to this day. Harris wrote ‘Run To The Hills’, and the song was the band’s first single to feature Bruce Dickinson on lead vocals: it was ranked Number 10 on Rolling Stone’s list of ‘100 Greatest Heavy Metal Songs’.
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