A Storm Breaks

LETJOG E2W – Day 39: Wednesday 22 May – INCH to DINGLE (16.8 miles)

So, after 39 days of steps, I have made it to Dingle – just one more day to go now on my East to West journey!

It is sometimes said that ‘it never rains, it pours’, and on the Dingle Peninsula today that maxim certainly held true. My penultimate walk was a waterproofs on/ waterproofs off kind of day, having been though everything from light drizzle through to a hailstorm and a deluge the like of which I had yet to experience on this LETJOG E2W journey. The weather gods have certainly saved their most fearsome elements for the finale of my walk; although I hope that their timing is slightly out, as the forecast conditions are looking somewhat better for my swan song out to Dunmore Head tomorrow, my ultimate E2W destination.

My day’s walk took me further along the Dingle Peninsula, initially on the main road towards Anascaul, but soon picking up the Dingle Way along winding and undulating back roads and tracks, and eventually into Dingle

Even without the rain storms, today really was one of the more spectacular days of walking that I have had on my trek. Most of the route was away from any busy roads, following remote lanes and tracks and, if anything, the views of the mountains and the sea were made all the more eye-catching by the ever-changing clouds, brought in over the hills on a brisk northerly wind. Either I am now accustomed to getting wet or maybe it is because the finish line is so close, but I have become quite ambivalent towards the weather – perhaps also in the knowledge today that I had a certain and comfortable overnight refuge booked in Dingle. And eventually, I was indeed warmly welcomed with tea and chocolate cake at Heaton’s B&B, and my thanks to David and the team for their support and flexibility around my booking arrangements. Here goes with the pictures that I was able to take between the downpours.

The view this morning from my B&B in Inch – my route out of the village along the coast road is looking moody, to say the least
A backward glance to the Inch sand bar across Dingle Bay . . .
. . . and out towards the ocean
A selfie of my first passing rain cloud, now over the water
A brief pause between showers as the road cut inland to Anascaul . . .
. . . where my path took off on a side track to join the Kerry Camino, also known on this stretch as the Dingle Way
Clumps of trefoil by the wayside . . .
. . . and crossing a colourful mountain stream
Not towards the clouds please!
Then a brief respite from the rain along a lane . . .
. . . heading back to the coast . . .
. . . and to a fine spot overlooking Minard Castle, where I stopped for a break with some American trekkers who I had met yesterday afternoon in Inch
The track soon turned northward, inland again, along the valley of the River Owenalondrig (what a great name)
There are still some bluebells on the verges here . . .
. . . and everywhere, these last two days, hedgerow fuchsias
Here it comes . . .
. . . fast forward two hours and a chink of blue appears – in the interim I walked, head down, got wet, and was unable to contemplate taking any photos
But, as in life, these things pass . . .
. . . and I was able to capture my first view of Dingle Harbour
Rather wet and bedraggled, I made it into Dingle . . .
. . . to be greeted by some blue sky on the quayside . . .
. . . and on the colourful waterfront high street
Dolphin trips are a favoured excursion here . . .
. . . and they also offer a dolphin shop

Tonight, after a warm shower, and my tea and cake, it was back into town to shop for supplies, and for an evening stroll.

The marina . . .
. . . and a view out towards the harbour entrance, ahead of a quick retreat to the sanctuary of Heaton’s, before the next deluge struck

The chequered flag awaits, just a dozen or so miles further west now, at Dunmore Head on the very western tip of the Dingle Peninsula – the most westerly point on mainland Ireland. I am not there yet, but I am in good shape and in good spirits to complete the journey tomorrow – an early night beckons.

Arriving still wet, but content, in Dingle this afternoon

My Blog heading today, ‘A Storm Breaks’ is taken from a song of that title by Dublin band The Boomtown Rats. Written by lead singer Bob Geldof, the track appears on the group’s fifth album ‘V Deep’ released in 1982. The ‘V’ is pronounced ‘Five’ as it was the first work recorded after the departure of guitarist Gerry Cott, reducing the band from their original six-piece line-up. I was not familiar with the song before researching a suitable Blog title for today, and for me it takes a bit of getting used to. So instead, the song I have been singing in my head for half of my walk today is ‘Who’ll Stop The Rain’: this too would have made an excellent heading, especially as Bruce Springsteen opened his show in Cork last week with his cover version of the number – the original was by Californian band Creedence Clearwater Revival from 1970 – but I have sought to stick with Irish artists for this part of my trip. Maybe as a compromise I will include both songs on my E2W playlist.

On a recommendation I popped into John Benny’s busy pub tonight for a pint of Murphy’s Stout with the locals and, as it turned out, with a few dozen Americans – who, it would seem, had been given similar directions

2 thoughts on “A Storm Breaks

  1. Fuchsia in the hedgerow is a wonderful sight that I’ve not seen before. Weather is throwing everything at you on the last lap! No blisters? 🇮🇪💦🌨️🌊🌈

    Like

  2. We’re all in awe of what you’ve achieved Nick. Looks like you’re saving the best till last . Enjoy the gastronomy of the Irish on your last day. Irish stew, Guinness and cake!
    x

    Like

Leave a comment