It’s All In The Game

CAMINO FRANCÉS – Day 27: Monday 5 May 2025 – O’CEBREIRO to SARRIA (40 [+2] kilometres)

My first view of the outside world this morning – leaving O’Cebreiro in the gloom, just before seven o’clock

The Galician weather, arriving usually from across the Atlantic, is renowned for its volatility, and I was always aware that to walk the entire 800 kilometres or so of the Camino Francés without experiencing rain was a virtual impossibility. Today, on my first full day in Galicia, the heavy showers duly arrived: in actual fact we had a bit of everything, weather-wise, on the trail today – early morning mist, swirling clouds, a cold wind (even requiring gloves first thing), the said showers, and then some sunshine to finish as I approached Sarria. For us hill walkers this changeability is indeed all in the game.

Further progress today towards Santiago de Compostela
My morning walk took me from O’Cebreiro on the extreme right of the map, westwards past the Alto de San Roque and Alto do Poio viewpoints to the town of Triacastela on the left . . .
. . . and then on a climb up through San Xil and to the Alto de Riocabo, on the northern of the two red routes, before descending through farmland to Sarria

Through all of these forces of nature I managed to keep going today – starting in the pre-dawn murk, and going for around eight hours until mid-afternoon, and covering around 40 kilometres of the Camino path, so pretty much a marathon. In doing so I combined two of the shorter suggested daily stages into one, putting me a day ahead of my schedule, with the intention of having an extra night in Santiago de Compostela next weekend, at the end of the trek – all being well, that is. Due to the weather and my haste today I shot a limited number of photos, but here goes with a selection.

The path out of O’Cebreiro . . .
. . . into the woods . . .
. . . and through the village of Linares
This statue marks the peak of Alto San Roque (1,270 metres of elevation), but no views from here this morning . . .
. . . nor from our high point of the day, Alto do Poio (1,335 metres) – although the summit café was open for coffee
Back on the high trail . . .
. . . then down through Fonfria village . . .
. . . before emerging from the cloud base, at least temporarily, just above Biduedo
The village has the tiniest of chapels . . .
. . . and ‘toy’ farm equipment to match
A Neolithic greeting in Fillobal . . .
. . . and a traditional style of playhouse
At Ramil the rain started falling, quite heavily . . .
. . . so on reaching my half-way point of Triacastela . . .
. . . it was time to stop for a late, late breakfast
Leaving Triacastela and following the Rio Balsa . . .
. . . up through the pastures . . .
. . . past this elaborate drinking fountain . . .
. . . on a sunken path . . .
. . . and back up to the moorland, above San Xil
Another summit photo – Alto de Riocabo, at 910 metres, is about a 300 metre climb from Triacastela
Sunshine and showers this afternoon
The descent through the woods . . .
. . . a temperate rainforest
In the hamlet of Montán I happened upon this ‘help yourself, pay what you will’ tearoom (for want of a better word) – that has areas for dining, lounging, music and meditation – and I spent a happy half-hour here chatting with the other walkers
A sea of shells
Views westward – this could almost be the Peak District!
Continuing my descent . . .
. . . with Sarria at last in sight . . .
. . . and then crossing the Rio Sarria, into the town

Having arrived in Sarria, I have now completed the fourth of the five sections of the walk that I used during my planning for the Camino Francés. My sections make use of the 33 daily stages set out in my guidebook (by John Brierley): they are not exactly equal in length or time, but tend to end at major milestones on the route, namely the cities of Logroño, Burgos and León, and, in today’s case, the town of Sarria. This hiking centre is where the ‘one-week’ Camino walkers join the action, so I am told to expect a busier pathway, much excitement and disappointment as personal dramas unfold on the trail, and greater difficulty securing overnight accommodation (although I am now booking ahead where possible to ameliorate the risks of the latter). But before I sign off for the day, my vital statistics at the end of my fourth section of the walk read (approximately): 661 kilometres (413 miles) of the Camino path covered, and around 9,500 metres climbed. I have walked around 160 hours (inclusive of stops en route), over a period of 27 days (including my three ‘Rest Days’).

I didn’t so much ‘hit the town’ tonight as stumble through it!
Views from the Ruá Maior . . .
. . . and the Iglesia Santa Mariña
A wander down the main street . . .
. . . then dinner in the Plaza – this salad, on the Pilgrim’s Menu, was just a starter, and was followed by a fine paella and then some Santiago Cake and coffee – with wine, and bread, the whole set meal was €14, and it amply fed a very hungry trekker

I chose my Blog heading today, ‘It’s All In The Game’, as an acknowledgement of the variables, particularly the weather, that fall outside of one’s control when walking – really with the sentiment of accepting whatever obstacles are encountered and getting on with the day. The song, from which the title is taken, is a number recorded by US soul and R&B artist Tommy Edwards from 1958, and it became the first single by an African-American to hit the top of the US Billboard Hot 100. The song has an interesting history, as the wordless (and title-less) music was composed in 1911 by Charles G Dawes, who went on to become US Vice President under Calvin Coolidge, with the lyrics being added by Carl Sigman in 1951. The song was recorded that year by a number of artists, including Edwards, but it was his rearrangement of the number in 1958 in a more contemporary style that brought the song to mainstream attention, and also led to many other older songs being re-recorded with a ‘rock and roll’ influence. The song itself went on to be covered by many other artists, including (and most notably as far as the UK is concerned) by Cliff Richard.

A spontaneous (and appropriate) rendition of John Fogerty’s ‘Who’ll Stop The Rain’ in the Montán tearoom

4 thoughts on “It’s All In The Game

  1. Goodness Nick, you are ploughing on indeed!!! Becoming a series of ultra marathons!! But an extra day in Santiago will be welcome – can do that rooftop tour!

    Sheila got there today, a shame you didn’t get there at the same time!

    Well done so far, I look forward to your evening blog and will miss them when you stop!!

    Take care,
    Jane x

    Sent from Outlook for Androidhttps://aka.ms/AAb9ysg

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  2. Wow, well done on a huge distance and in such appalling conditions! I hope everything has dried out and that the weather is better tomorrow.

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  3. Quite a day. A marathon no less! Toughest yet I imagine covering such a long distance. Hope the feet and shoulders are ok tomorrow morning.

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  4. I might have missed this earlier, but is the Pilgrim’s Menu only for walkers, and do you have to show your ‘passport’? And how many stamps do you have now? Am I asking to many questions? Oops, there was a third!

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