Carefree Highway

CAMINO PORTUGUÉS – Day 6: Sunday 31 May 2026 – RUBIÃES to TUI (20 [+4] kilometres)

Eviva España – I crossed over the Rio Minho from Portugal and into Spain this afternoon . . .

. . . and, what’s more, according to this signpost near the village of Paços, I passed the halfway point of my Porto to Santiago trek

With a shorter section of the Camino Portugués in prospect today I allowed myself a lie-in until 7.30 am, emerging a half-hour later into sapphire-blue skies and already warm air: no mist today! No matter, with time on my side, I was able to amble, stop three times for coffee, water and snacks, and to socialise along the path with a fair number of other peregrinos. All whilst taking in the wonderful sights, sounds and smells of this rolling green countryside. Another fabulous day, with many highlights. But first the maps:

. . . and a little more detail of my day’s trek from Rubiães

Just a couple of kilometres into my walk I happened upon Connor and Owen tucking into breakfast, though I chose a large coffee as my vice

For a short while the trail ran alongside the small Coura stream . . .

. . . before a cobblestone track headed into the trees on a 150-metre ascent . . .

. . . to the hilltop church at Alto San Bento

I popped in for a Pilgrim’s Passport stamp . . .

. . . and for some moments of coolness and serenity after my climb

With the day’s principal exertion completed, I followed some wonderful woodland ways gently downhill through stands of eucalyptus, chestnut, holm and cork oaks . . .

. . . before enjoying some first glimpses of the Rio Minho valley and the Spanish hills beyond

. . . then another stream-side path . . .

. . . where I had brunch in a café overlooking the church

Approaching Valença I took a water break in the shade . . .

. . . with Chris, Denise, Carolyn and Brent – friends from London and Vancouver taking on the Camino together: we have in common the fact that we are all part of the same fan club, following Welsh songsmith Martyn Joseph across two continents

Reaching the gates of the fortress town of Valença . . .

. . . through the narrow pedestrianised streets . . .

I climbed the outer battlements, on a path confusing for tourists and invaders alike

Super views from the battlements across the Rio Minho to the town of Tui, in Spain – my destination for the day

An old chestnut, now a part of the fortifications

On arriving into Spain, the metal plaques on these two milestones (or perhaps kilometre-stones) both denote the distance to Santiago with unnecessary accuracy at 118.464 km: presumably one of them is a metre out!

The view from my bedroom window in the centre of Tui this evening – looking back on Valença, the green hills of northern Portugal, and a fabulous week of camaraderie and walking.

Another super day has flown by, and with a relaxed schedule I have decided to stay over in Tui for two nights, in order to see the town’s attractions tomorrow. A good night’s sleep beckons!

The song ‘Carefree Highway’ that I have adopted as my Blog heading today, was a hit for Canadian singer-songwriter Gordon Lightfoot in 1974, from his album ‘Sundown’. The lyrics employ the words in the title as a metaphor for a state of mind where the singer seeks to escape from his ruminations over the past. Lightfoot passed away in 2023, but (in the words of his biographer) ‘his name will remain synonymous with timeless songs about trains and shipwrecks, rivers and highways, lovers and loneliness’. ‘Carefree Highway’ is one of my favourites, and the relaxed vibe of the song suits the mood of today’s slower walk rather well.

Carefree Highway

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