Sunshine On My Shoulders

CAMINO PORTUGUÉS – Day 12: Saturday 6 June 2026 – CALDAS de REIS to PADRÓN (19 [+4] kilometres)

To walk in this wonderful corner of Spain is a pleasure and a privilege – a rolling landscape of mixed woodland and well-tended vineyards interspersed with smallholdings and hamlets, all on a human scale that provides new interest with every step. The greenery is no doubt dependent on a healthy amount of rain, and a downpour had clearly materialised overnight as we departed the wet streets of Caldas de Reis and entered the dripping forest. But fortunately for us pilgrims any chance of rain had evaporated long before we emerged on the trail, to leave a clear blue sky, sunshine aplenty, and a cool temperature most comfortable for walking. With the weekend upon us and the Camino Portugués path now close to its destination of Santiago the procession of pilgrims has swelled still further, though with the upside that several new cafés have sprung up by the wayside, all seemingly able to cater for the increased business. This all made for a remarkable day’s ramble punctuated with several sociable stops for coffee and snacks along the way.

Only 24 hours (and 26 kilometres) from Santiago
Today’s path, from Caldas de Reis northward to Padrón

I have not really been counting down the kilometres to Santiago, as the trek has been far from arduous over these last few days, and in the company of others the journey has passed easily and almost too hastily. Here follows my day in pictures.

Crossing the ancient bridge over the Rio Bermaña on the way out of Caldas de Reis . . .
. . . and passing under the main N-550 road . . .
. . . and into the woods
The 40-kilometre (to Santiago) marker, just before Carrecedo village, my breakfast stop
The Iglesia Santa Mariña church . . .
. . . and the nearby village of Cortiñas
Here I met Buzz, Margot and Abi from the US, three generations walking the trail together – and we were destined to become Camino buddies for the day
Plenty of vineyards today . . .
. . . and woodland paths
Down into the Valga valley . . .
. . . and to another coffee stop, opposite the church in San Miguel
Back on the trail . . .
. . . with some fine views . . .
. . . and a gourd garden
The historic town of Pontecesures . . .
. . . is dominated unfortunately by this huge factory
Downhill now . . .
. . . to cross the Rio Ulla
The town of Padron stands on a strip of land between the Ulla and this smaller river, the Rio Sar
The Convento do Carne overlooks the town . . .
. . . where the early trekkers were arriving to seek refreshment
An evening stroll took me to this small chapel to get my Padrón Pilgrim Passport stamp . . .
. . . followed by a fine dinner of calamari and salad in the café opposite, that I enjoyed in the company of a small group of Irish peregrinos

And finally – can anyone name either of these two unusual plants:

This wall-flower . . .
. . . and this ‘two-in-one’ bloomer?

Padrón, where I now sit writing this Blog, is a small town of just under 10,000 permanent residents. Aside from being famous for its tapas peppers, the town has an important Camino pedigree, as the starting point for St James’ ministry on his trip to Spain and, some years later, as the landing point for his mortal remains following his martyrdom, ahead of his final journey to the reliquary in Santiago Cathedral. Quiet on our arrival around siesta time, the town took on a busy evening feel, with cafés, shops and bars thriving on the back of the Camino Portugués traffic. Like Pontevedra though, I feel a need to return for a full exploration of Padrón that was beyond my fleeting Camino visit.

Sunshine all the way today, as weary pilgrims plan their final day’s walk on the Camino Portugués

‘Sunshine on my Shoulders’ is a gentle number by US singer-songwriter John Denver, and it seems a fitting Blog heading for today’s easy ramble in this delightful Spanish province. The piece was recorded in 1971 and appeared on Denver’s album ‘Poems, Prayers & Promises’, before peaking on the Billboard Hot 100 chart as a single in early 1974. Known also simply as ‘Sunshine’, the song sums up the feel of the day’s walk rather well.

A Galician piper at the crossing of the Rio Valga

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