Back To The Sea

ROUTE 1066 – Day 8: Monday 9 November 2026 – SITTINGBOURNE to ROCHESTER (15 + 2 miles)

Rochester Castle, just around the corner from where I am staying tonight, was founded by William I in the aftermath of the conquest, on the strategically-important crossing point of the River Medway: the fortress is believed to have been given by the new monarch to his half-brother Bishop Odo who fought alongside him at the Battle of Hastings

I spoke yesterday about the lack of certainty over the route that William and his army took from Canterbury to London and, in the light of this conundrum, of my decision to prioritise my enjoyment of my ROUTE 1066 walk over any historical considerations. But, sitting here tonight in the comfort of my rambling hotel in Rochester, it would seem that my Norman trail has not gone cold entirely: maybe William did indeed stay here in November 1066!

My path this morning took me north-westwards through the streets of Sittingbourne, and then on country lanes to the villages of Lower Halstow and Upchurch . . .

. . . before returning to the England Coast Path, and following the tidal reaches of the Medway estuary north of Gillingham, before walking into Chatham and finally Rochester

I have had another day of fine autumnal weather: a little mist first thing, but nothing that lingered, and then a cool, clear day with little breeze and sunny intervals that, on occasion, led me to remove a layer. Indeed, sitting outside in the sun for an early sandwich at the Visitor Centre in Riverside Country Park, I enjoyed a few minutes of unseasonal warmth before the clouds returned. And more than that – today I rejoined the King Charles III England Coast Path, and a section of the Saxon Shore Way – both of which I walked on last week before their long detour around the coastline of eastern Kent, whilst I ‘cut off the corner’ inland through Canterbury. Anyway – here is how I got on today:

Leaving Sittingbourne – an interesting signboard – and then it was out on country lanes for a few miles past the hamlets of Bobbing and Upper Toes . . .

Plane trees in autumn majesty at Callum Park . . .

. . . and a first view, northward, of the Medway estuary

Off the roads now, and onto a footpath – with the strangest direction sign I can recall . . .

Sunshine, as I reached Lower Halstow . . .

St Mary’s at Upchurch village strikes ten

This footpath runs right through the apple trees

Friends reunited – back on the England Coast Path, and the coincident Saxon Shore Way . . .

. . . as we entered the Riverside Country Park . . .

. . . for some fine views over the marshes

The path down from the Riverside Country Park Visitor Centre . . .

. . . leads to the causeway over to Horrid Island

Views across to the power station on the Isle of Grain, and to Darnet Fort (the dark island)

Inland now, to the fortifications of Gillingham . . .

Into Chatham, where Lord Kitchener stands guard over Fort Amherst

Fort Amherst was commenced in 1756 and enhanced during the Napoleonic wars to defend Chatham Docks from any French invasion – it is one of the largest and best-preserved military fortresses of its kind

A pleasant final mile by the Medway . . .

Arriving into Rochester High Street . . .

. . . and looking upstream from Rochester Bridge . . .

. . . that was for many years the lowest bridging point on the Medway, bringing prosperity to the town

Today was a slightly shorter walking day than my last three stages since I turned westwards from Dover, and this gave me a little time to enjoy the inlets along the the Coast Path by the Medway estuary as well as Fort Amherst and some of the other sights that Rochester has to offer. This area is completely new to me, and it is clear that there is so much naval, industrial and military history to explore, as well as Rochester Castle and the Cathedral. People often say to me that walking is the best way to see all the hidden details of a locality, but I have the sense tonight that I am on something of a whistle-stop tour – a necessity in order to keep my ROUTE 1066 quest on schedule. Along with Canterbury I have made a mental note to re-visit the Medway Towns again soon, for a closer look. I’ll be back!

Thank you for following my ROUTE 1066 journey – re-tracing the steps of William the Conqueror in 1066 on his 360-mile campaign trail from Pevensey Bay, via Berkhamsted, and on to Westminster Abbey. If you are following my Blog, enjoying the ramble, and would like to help us to SAVE CASTLE FIELDS for future generations by pledging £39 to sponsor a 3×3-metre square of the land, then please click on this link:

‘Sponsor A Square’ on the SAVE CASTLE FIELDS Website

THANK YOU ALL FOR SUPPORTING MY ROUTE 1066 WALK, AND FOR HELPING TO PRESERVE THE LEGACY OF CASTLE FIELDS

My Blog heading today ‘Back To The Sea’ comes from a song title by Sunderland-based post-punk band The Futureheads, off their 2006 album ‘News and Tributes’. The band received more by way of critical acclaim than commercial success, but went on to record several further albums over the next decade.