Wrapped Up In Books

ROUTE 1066 – Day 10: Wednesday 11 November 2026 – DARTFORD to GREENWICH (16 miles)

Order or chaos? A wreck, the Thames Barrier, and Canary Wharf

With the lack once more of Norman landmarks to mark my pursuance of William’s campaign trail today, I thought that I would address a question that one or two of you have put to me in recent days – namely, what sources do we have to tell us exactly of the goings-on during the Norman Conquest of 960 years ago? Hence my slightly odd Blog heading. I am not a historian, so my reading has been of various online sources and books by academic scholars who, at times, place very different interpretations upon the available evidence. In addition to the buildings and artefacts left by the Normans, there is a variety of source material that is quite interesting. The evidence ranges from ships’ lists, various charters, and of course (some two decades after the invasion) the Domesday Book – that all help to some degree on certain specific details and on contextual matters. But there are also some important primary written sources from the time of the invasion, and subsequently, that form the basis of our knowledge of William’s campaign. One witness was William of Poitiers, a Norman priest who served as chaplain to his namesake and, whilst his writing was contemporaneous, he deferred heavily to his master and was ever seeking to present William as wise and gracious, whilst often ignoring some of the glaring acts of brutality known to have occurred. Another source, and another William, this time of Jumièges, similarly recorded contemporary events from the time of the invasion, again from the Norman perspective. There is also some record of the English viewpoint, via entries in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle, and there is a later poem of some 835 lines known as the Carmen de Hastingae Proelio penned by Guy, Bishop of Amiens, written in the immediate years after the Norman accession (but not discovered until centuries later) that presents, arguably, a less partisan account of events. And then of course there is the Bayeux Tapestry – a cartoon-strip record that speaks in ways that words cannot. Despite, or because of, this wide range of sources there are significant areas of disagreement between the various authors, and also some notable omissions and instances of silence, to frustrate the historians and academics – and also to challenge me in seeking to determine the exact route of William’s campaign trail.

A scene from the Bayeux Tapestry, where the appearance of Halley’s Comet in early 1066 was seen as an omen by the Anglo-Saxons

As for my walk, I changed strategy today. Staying over with friends Nick and Fran, I awoke to steady rain that was forecast to endure for a few hours until the mid afternoon – and so, with many miles of walking ahead of me, I decided, for once, to delay starting out on the trail until much later than usual. Hence I did not leave Dartford until late morning – still in the wet, but with the hope of brighter skies later.

My path today took me along the rain-soaked main roads of south-east London for four miles (not fun) – but then things changed as I joined the England Coastal Path once more for almost a dozen miles . . .
. . . along to and beyond Woolwich, before a short stretch through residential streets into Greenwich

I finally got away from Dartford this morning at a couple of minutes past 11.00 am, having observed my two minutes’ silence in the High Street. I had already deployed my waterproofs under cover of the Priory shopping mall after Nick had dropped me off there, and these remained in place for my non-stop walk to Woolwich along the Thames Path: here, as the rain at last abated, I found a coffee bar to dry off a little before the final miles into Greenwich.

Making progress on my wet street-walk, as I left Dartford for Bexley . . .
. . . past the church at Erith . . .
. . . and my first sighting of the Thames
This concrete walkway runs for a dozen miles: it makes for speedy walking, but is hard on the knees!
Plenty of activity along the wharves . . .
. . . a wave-cut platform . . .
. . . and a flutter of seabirds
The far-off forms of Canary Wharf, emerging from the murk
Still a way to go, but now on the Thames Path
A lone runner . . .
. . . opposite the entrance to Barking Creek on the north bank
Some greenery at last
Cannons aligned . . .
. . . on Greenpeace!
Made it to Woolwich – where a coffee beckoned!
More artillery . . .
. . . as I reached the Thames Barrier . . .
. . . and from the upstream side
Canary Wharf a little closer and clearer now
Unloading the boat of aggregates . . .
. . . for processing at Tarmac’s Woolwich plant
Greenwich Yacht Club . . .
. . . has an interesting clubhouse
Hometime!
Into Greenwich . . .
. . . and a chance to change into dry clothes over a pint in the Trafalgar Tavern
The light was fading fast as I glanced back at the O2 Arena (formerly the Millenium Dome) . . .
. . . but I just about made it by nightfall to the Cutty Sark in Greenwich
A walk under the Thames to the DLR was not an option for William

And tonight I am staying over with my parents Pam and Ron, joined also by my nephew Louie and partner Melissa, just across the river in south-west Essex – enjoying home comforts for a second night running. Tomorrow morning I take the train back to Greenwich to re-start my ROUTE 1066 walk for my final day’s march into London.

Thank you for following my ROUTE 1066 journey – re-tracing the steps of William the Conqueror in 1066 on his 360-mile campaign trail from Pevensey Bay, via Berkhamsted, and on to Westminster Abbey. If you are following my Blog, enjoying the ramble, and would like to help us to SAVE CASTLE FIELDS for future generations by pledging £39 to sponsor a 3×3-metre square of the land, then please click on this link:

THANK YOU ALL FOR SUPPORTING MY ROUTE 1066 WALK, AND FOR HELPING TO PRESERVE THE LEGACY OF CASTLE FIELDS

Staying over tonight with family in south-west Essex – my father Ron raising a glass to Louie, Pam, Melissa and myself over dinner

I have been trying for a while to find a Belle and Sebastian song title to use as a Blog heading – so today’s choice of ‘Wrapped Up In Books’ fits the bill nicely. The song appears on the Scottish indie band’s 2003 album ‘Dear Catastrophe Waitress’ written by the group’s lead vocalist Stuart Murdoch and also featuring Stevie Jackson on vocals. An interesting addition to my ROUTE 1066 playlist.

Stuart Murdoch and the band performing at the Albert Hall on 9 April this year – a great sound and quite a spectacle!

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